This is the Easiest System
for
Self Installers! We help you
every step of the way!
Every furnace
comes with a complete detailed 41 page manual with lots of
pictures and diagrams!
If you have any technical questions or
need any help whatsoever, please call Billy at 870-895-3104
or 3111
Installing an outdoor wood furnace can be
broken down simply:
- Pour a 4" thick concrete pad to support the furnace.
The Shaver Pro Series 165 weighs
1600 lb. The total weight with water will be about 2800
lb. It will take only 1/2 yard of
concrete for a nice concrete pad (approx 4" thick), giving you a nice place
to stand and load wood.
- Dig a trench, making sure it's below the frost line, to
prevent excessive heat loss and freezing. This is the
maximum depth to which frost will penetrate the ground during the
worst of winter. This depth varies
from area to area. See
this frost line map or call your local building inspector's
office.
Trenchers, ditch-withes and small backhoes can be rented inexpensively allowing you to
dig the trench yourself with little effort, avoiding $40-60 an hour
charge from your
local landscaper or septic tank installer.
The ground temperature below the frost line is 50-55 degrees, even in winter, so heat loss is minimal.
You will be placing 2 runs of 1" PEX pipe (plus one
3/4" to fill line the
furnace) and a 12/3 110V wire in a 4" or 6" PVC pipe. The pipe is placed in the
trench, from the outdoor furnace to the house. We recommend
using insulated pipe OR for less money, insulating
the Pex pipe with Solarguard™, which is only 1/4"
thick (easy to wrap) but has an R value just shy of R12 -
for one layer!
- Remember to run a 2nd twine or thin rope
through the pipe in case you need to pull a pipe through
later. It will make it a LOT easier!
- If you are connecting a hot water
heater you will need one additional run of 3/4" Pex
(for a total of 4) and another pump ($99),
mounted indoors. See info and picture below.
- Install the heat exchanger in the
furnace's output plenum. (If hooking it to a boiler, you
will install a water-to-water heat exchanger). You can usually find a size to fit
your plenum so that little or no metal work is needed.
- Connect the 1" PEX pipe at the furnace and
at the heat exchanger. We use simple compression
fittings or Sharkbite™ so no plumber is needed! All that is needed is an
adjustable wrench for the compression fittings and your
hands for the Sharkbite fittings.
- Connect the 3/4" PEX pipe at the hot water heater. No
expensive side-arm heat or plate heat exchanger is needed - since potable hot water is circulated
directly from the hot water heater through the built-in
domestic hot water heat exchanger furnace. It goes back to
your hot water heater already heated up! This can save you
$30 plus a month! This also saves you
about $100 - $200 on a side-arm or plate heat exchanger.
- Install a new 15A circuit breaker ($8-15) in
your breaker box and connect the 110V wire to the
breaker and out at the furnace
- Install a simple thermostat and hook it
up. The third wire in the 12/3 wire is used for the pump instead of special thermostat wire,
so that it only runs on demand when your furnace fan (or
boiler pump) is running..
- Fill with water. Start a fire!
- You have started saving money!
Remember, this is just an overview.
You will get a comprehensive 41 page manual with lots of
pictures and diagrams to make it super easy for you!
Download
Diagram for Boiler and Hydronic installations such as for
water radiators, water baseboard heaters, etc. (PDF file - Adobe
reader required)
Download
Diagram for hooking up a Pool, Hot Tub or Spa.
Building codes
(or lack thereof) often allow a
homeowner to do much, it not all of the work themselves. In other
locations a licensed electrician and plumber may be
required to do
the actual hookup.
This usually doesn't preclude you from putting in the
concrete pad,
trench, pipe and wiring. Never cover the pipe and wiring before
an
inspection, if needed!
Check with your local Building inspector's
office for information
pertaining to your area and for the frost line level..
Click on picture for a
HUGE image. Modem users click HERE.
Scroll to bottom of large picture to see piping, heat
exchangers, hot water hookup and wires in basement.
Picture shown has heated garage in basement,
but it could, just as easily, be a separate garage, shop
or apartment.
Many garages or shops
use an air handler like the one below.
CLICK on PICTURES for a BIGGER IMAGE
Typical Heat Exchanger that is installed in the supply plenum
or ductwork (the one that goes to the vents).
Click on Picture for
a LARGER IMAGE
|
Click on Picture for
a LARGER IMAGE
This shows a single pump hookup.
A hookup for a 2nd pump is standard and is No Charge.
2nd Pump is $140
|
Single zone
setup
with one pump
1. Goes
to house, to heat exchanger.
2. Return from house heat exchanger.
3. 110V to pump, thermostat, and blower
4. Inlet from hot water heater to potable water coil
5. Outlet from potable hot water coil (not seen) - inside of
furnace
6. To manual fill valve on front of furnace
7. Water supply to furnace from manual valve in front of
furnace
8. Optional outdoor hot water supply. Great for steam
cleaning!
9. Drain
10.Blower/Fan to fuel fire
11.Circulating Pump
12.Thermostat to control fan
|
| Hooking up the Hot Water Heater
With an electric hot water heater, we recommend that
you remove the pop-up valve and replace it with a
3/4" nipple and a T for your incoming water. Put
the pop-up valve back on one side of the T and the
circulating pump on the other.
Remove the drain and do the same, putting in a T with
the drain on one side and the outgoing water (Pex Pipe)
on the other.
Put a surface mount
thermostat beside, above or below the bottom element.
About $5 - 8 at your local hardware store. Wire it so that
110V goes to one side of the thermostat and the other side is wired to the
pump. Common goes straight to the pump, as well as a
ground wire.
You just saved $200 for a
less efficient side-arm or plate heat exchanger! You can still use the heater as
normal. Simply turn the thermostat down lower on the hot
water heater than on the thermostat just installed, or
turn off your breaker for the pump (or unplug it).
Gas Hot Water Heater
For a gas heater, there is usually a plate than can
be removed to gain access to the tank itself. Simply
mount the thermostat on the tank and follow the other instructions
for water hookup above.
Click on diagram for a bigger image. |
Outdoor Furnace Dimensions
Recommended Dimensions for Concrete Pad
|
INSTALLATION KIT - Typical
For one heat exchanger - furnace 50 ft.
from house
|
| Outside |
3 x 50' = 150' Pex Pipe
|
$150.00 |
|
50' 12/3 wire |
36.00 |
|
Installation kit includes all fittings,
adapters, shut-off valves, etc. |
97.00 |
|
PVC Pipe and Insulation for Pex pipe |
115.00 |
|
|
$398.00 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Inside |
Heat Exchanger (100,000 Btu) |
195.00 |
|
1-line Thermostat |
19.80 |
|
25' 12/2 wire |
20.00 |
|
110 V 20 Amp breaker |
20.00 |
|
|
$254.80 |
|
|
|
|
Sheet metal (Rarely needed,
only if a heat
exchanger won't fit your plenum) |
31.00 |
|
4 hrs labor for duct work
(only if needed for heat
exchanger to fit) |
120.00 |
|
If heating domestic hot water add $99
for a pump and 50' of Pex at .89 a foot - for a total of
4 Pex lines. |
$145.00 |
|
| Total |
$652 - $949 |
|
|
Prices will vary depending on
supplier and location |
SHAVER
OUTDOOR WOOD FURNACE
Get a Superior Wood Furnace!
Get
a Shaver!
Building the Best Wood Furnaces for 36 Years!
|
20 Year Warranty!