FAQ with REAL and TRUE answers from Shaver Outdoor Wood Furnace


If you want to find TRUE answers to your questions about Outdoor Wood Furnaces, you’ve come to the right place.

We won’t tell you that your wood will burn for 92 hours or that you can put your furnace 500 feet away!

 

The realistic Shaver Outdoor Furnace
FAQfor WATER FURNACES only


FAQ for Forced-AirFurnaces Here

 

What is the Shaver outdoor wood furnace?

What kind of heating systems can the Shaver Furnace interface with?

How can the Shaver heat my home and domestic hot water?

What are the advantages of the Shaver Outdoor Wood Furnace?

Why are your prices so low?

Can the installation be completed by the homeowner or does a professional need to be used?

Is the Earth Wood Furnace a subsidiary of yours? They look just like you in every way.

What do the experts say?

What is the BTU rating of your furnace?

What comes with
the furnace?

What else will
I need to buy?

Do you sell
everything I need and can I get them ahead of time?

Do
you sell insulated water lines that run to the house?

Can
I install the furnace in the middle of winter,

so I can start saving money right away?

Can I get
more than the two standard sets of ports in addition to

the hot water
heater ports?

What is this
new rust treatment that you have, that lasts for 5 years?

Is burning
wood bad for the environment?

How long will the furnace last?

What
about Stainless Steel Wood Furnaces?

How long is the
warranty?

What can I expect to pay for an outdoor wood furnace?

How
much do I need to pay NOW, to start my  custom furnace?

What
kind of payments do you accept?

Why is the water jacket so
big? 170 gallons is a lot more than others!

How heavy is your
furnace?

Won’t the firebox burn out eventually?

Why don’t
you use boiler plate?

Antifreeze as a Rust Inhibitor?

Is this furnace (boiler) pressurized or non-pressurized?

Is
there a safety latch or anti-blowback latch?

Is there a lot of heat loss when the unit is outside and it’s below
32° F?

Can I connect the
Shaver to a forced air heating system?

What
would need to be done to interface a Trane I-19 heat pump?

Will
my existing furnace take over as a backup?

How
do I keep my furnace going in the event of a power failure?

I only have baseboard electric heat, how can I use the
Shaver?

I
don’t have a heating system now. What do I do?

Can I heat my domestic water with the
Shaver?

Can I connect the
Shaver to a pressurized heating system or boiler?

Should I consider radiant heat?

Can the
Shaver heat my pool and/or spa?

Can I heat more than one building?



Can the Shaver Furnace melt snow and ice on my walkway, sidewalk and
driveway; keeping it clear?

I
have two heat pumps or furnaces. Would I need a pump for both?

Can I use an outdoor wood furnace if I live in town?

How often do I have to fill it up?

Does the furnace come fully assembled?

Can I
extend the chimney of flue pipe?

Can boilers explode?

Does
your furnace burn continuously or does it shut off and on

according to if
the furnace is operating or some other method?

Does
your pump run continuously?

Do these furnaces need to be near the house?

How far away can
the furnace be from the heated building?

Is
there an elevation concern for the placement of the furnace?
 

Do you offer
financing?

Do I have a choice of colors?

Can
I get the furnace without siding for use in an outbuilding?

Could
make a Shaver Pro Series 250 without metal siding. I want

to install brick.

Who is Shaver Furnace?


What is the recommended temperature to set the Shaver
Furnace to?


What happens if the water inside the furnace
freezes?  Would it damage the pipes and the boiler?


Just had
another owner of a Shaver boiler tell me that I needed to be draining my
boiler every year.  Is that the fact?

WHY OUR
FURNACE IS THE ABSOLUTE BEST!



According to the UL (Underwriters Laboratories) our furnace needs to
be 5 feet away from flammables. The ThermoWind units cannot generally be
more than 15 feet from your home because the temperature losses and airflow
losses but in no case can be more than 30 feet away from your existing
ductwork.

Water models
can be up to 300 feet away.



Shaver Outdoor Wood Burning Furnace
is one of the leading and
the oldest manufacturers of
outdoor wood furnaces in Canada and the United States. We have been building quality
wood burning  furnaces since 1972 – 41 years!

We are a family run business (privately held – no big corporations), located in North Arkansas (10 miles from MO) and know all about
cold temperatures. We sell many furnaces in Canada, Alaska and Europe.

One of the reasons our prices are so low is because we are filling a
need; for everyone to have an outdoor furnace, that wants one.

– Our labor rates
are low, here in Arkansas and we pass those savings on to you!

– Our advertising is only $300 a month – unlike others who spend
tens of thousands of dollars on one full-page color ad. You pay for that!

– We use all off-the-shelf parts. That means that they cost less
money. We don’t use expensive circuit boards or computerized parts. That
means less expense for you (and simpler too).

– No one is looking to get rich off of these furnaces. In fact some other
manufactures put there furnaces on sale, lowering their prices by MORE
than we even make on a furnace!

We have a simpler, nicer looking furnace that’s made to stand the test of
time. We use our own tried and true SIMPLE 40 year old
design. This is the same furnace we were building in 1985 without changing
our prices by using cheaper materials or giving sloppy craftsmanship.

We HAVE made improvements to the furnaces over time – and STILL have
the lowest prices!

We believe we have the best
outdoor wood furnace
– and certainly
the best price by far.

Simply look at the shear weight of out furnaces and you will discover
that we use the most metal and have the thickest firebox of all.

We heat our manufacturing facility with a Shaver 340 Model. We also heat our own 5,000 sq ft home, hot water and hot tub
with a Shaver Outdoor
Wood Furnace.

What is the Shaver
Outdoor Wood Fired Furnace?
It is a safe and efficient way to heat your home with wood. The Shaver furnace is designed to look like an attractive storage building and is
installed outside, away from the home or building being heated.

Having an
outdoor furnace eliminates smoke,  pollution and wood debris within
the house. A water jacket surrounds the huge furnace firebox and the heat
is transferred from the wood fire to the water. The water is then piped at
130 F to 180 F (adjustable), to the house. It then goes through a heat exchanger,
which is a lot like a radiator. Air blows over the heat exchanger (in your
furnace’s plenum or ductwork), extracting heat for your home.

Heating systems other than forced air (such as boilers or radiant
floor heating systems) can be hooked up very simply. In fact a
boiler is the easiest system to hook up! They use an even smaller heat
exchanger, that instantly transfers the heat flowing from the outside
boiler to your indoor system, with only a 2 to 3° temperature difference.
This heat exchanger is normally just 5 x 12″ and can mount virtually
anywhere.

with this heat exchanger, the water never mixes with each other and
your indoor system can stay pressurized, while the outside system is
non-pressurized (safer).

 

What
kind of heating systems can the Shaver Furnace interface with?


Our systems will work great with virtually any system; Hydronic
or radiant floor
heat, forced air systems (oil, LP, Natural Gas), gas packs, heat
pumps, boilers, water radiators, etc.

The only system they will not work with, is a steam type
system but many of those systems can be converted to water.

We can even help you if you
don’t have any heating system now!

You can use baseboard Hydronic heaters,
old-style cast iron radiators, radiant floor heat (with Pex pipe
“stapled” to your floor underneath or easy to install flexible
ductwork.

We even have a new
ThermoWind furnace
, which does not have
any water at all and is simply hooked up to your existing ductwork, if you
have it or you could run two ducts from the outdoor furnace to your
building; he supply and return. You can always add extra or duct runs
later run to the different rooms, if needed.

 

How can the Shaver Wood
Furnace heat my home and water?The heated water is pumped to the home or building through insulated
underground pipes (Pex pipe). A water-to-air heat exchanger or
water-to-water heat exchanger,
conveys the heat into the home’s forced-air furnace, boiler, or radiant
floor heating system.

Think of how low your car our truck works;
dear Jen supplies hot water to the heat exchanger (heater core) and you
simply turn on the fan to get heat – lots of it!

This works the same way except that the heat is supplied by the Shaver
Furnace. Your furnace fan in your home blows air over the heat exchanger (
assuming that you have a forced air furnace) and again, you get heat and
lots of it!

It will also supply potable hot water to the water heater to provide
domestic hot water. Every Shaver Water Furnace comes with a built-in heat
exchanger at NO CHARGE. This eliminates the need for you to purchase an external
hot water heat exchanger for your hot water heater. You would also have to
buy a tempering valve, so you don’t end up with scalding water. This will
save you $250 – $300!

We use a direct hookup to the hot water heater.  This allows for normal thermostatic control of
temperatures for safe, even, comfortable heat. You won’t end up with
scalding water with our built-in heat exchanger for your domestic hot
water.

Our unique system can replenish the hot water in your hot water tank,
in as little as 4 min. – faster than virtually any hot water heater!

 

What are the advantages of the Shaver
outdoor wood boiler?

  • All of out parts are off-the-shelf parts.
  • You can heat your domestic hot water with our included built-in heat
    exchanger.
  • You can heat more than one building or home. This
  • You
    can heat your pool or spa land also a
    driveway or walkway; clearing it
    of snow and ice.
  • There are NO circuit board or computerized
    parts to fizzle with the first power surge!
  • The
    chance of carbon monoxide build-up in your home is eliminated.
  • Smoke in your home is eliminated.
  • The
    chance of a gas explosion from your furnace in your home is
    eliminated.
  •  Indoor
    pollutants of harmful gases and fumes are eliminated.
  • Asthma
    and other breathing difficulties are greatly helped by eliminating the
    dry air, fumes and gases.
  •  Eliminates
    the chance of chimney and flue fires from your furnace.
  • Lower insurance rates are usually possible!
  • Get the furnace beside your wood supply or
    wood pile, so you don’t have to carry it inside!

 

The Shaver furnace removes the fire hazard from your home or building because all
of the burning and stoking takes place outside. Insurance companies
love these furnaces. Often lower rates or higher coverage can be had by
changing from a fireplace or indoor wood stove to an outside wood furnace.

An outdoor wood furnace also helps your indoor air quality and can alleviate respiratory and allergy problems
caused by burning wood indoors . No more dark sooty walls and bugs either!
Thermostatic control provides your home with even, steady heat.

The house will be less drafty as well, when heating with the outside boiler, because there is no combustion device operating inside drawing in cold outside air to replace that used in combustion.

Current owners of the Shaver Furnace are also using
up to 25 to 50 percent less
wood
compared to other heating alternatives. Since the Shaver can burn
larger pieces of wood it will dramatically reduce time spent preparing the
wood. Costs for large round timbers are also dramatically less than for
smaller split wood. You can get this type of wood for $90 a cord compared
to $120-140 a cord or more.

The Shaver Wood Furnace means easy maintenance and few parts requiring
service
. You don’t need costly electrical gadgets and features to
cause problems down the road. This is a proven design of over 39 years!

KEEP IT
SIMPLE and efficient, is our motto. No circuit
boards, fancy controls and electronic or remote wireless controls here!

 

 

Can
the installation be completed by the homeowner or does professional need
to be used?
Most of our customers (80-90%) install the furnace themselves.

The electrical hookup is simple 110V wiring. If you can hook up a light
switch and a light socket, you have the knowledge and ability to do this
install.. Plumbing hookup is accomplished with easy push-on-by-hand
fittings; no tools needed!

You can lay the lines yourself and pour the concrete pad, if you’re
going to use one

The hardest job is putting the heat exchanger into the duct work. That
takes a little skill, to make the new ductwork to house the exchanger.
Sometimes it’s a slide-in affair!

A local heating and air guy can easily handle it all.

The heat exchanger (late exchanger or water to water heat exchanger)
for an inside boiler is the simplest to do; requiring the connection of
four pipes. That is all.

Everything is very simple and easy to do. There is a 59 page manual
(most of that is pictures and diagrams, that will help you every step of the
way. You can also call me or the factory for assistance but the fact of
the matter is, we rarely even get a phone call with questions about
installing the furnace!

 

Is
the Earth Furnace a subsidiary of yours? They look just like you in every
way.
What about Nature’s Comfort?

There are many similarities with
the Earth Wood Furnace but NO.

“Imitation
is the sincerest form of flattery.”

We have been here for 41 years. We will be there when you need them. We
will and we have proven that.

Companies that have lasted 41 years are far and few between and we are
one of them. Don’t you want that security?

Earth Stove and Nature’s Comfort (another imitator) have only been in
business for years; since late 2008.

We have seen many companies come and go in just the last five or
six years; folding up and going out of business, leaving the customer
without any warranty at all.

 

What do the experts say?According to the University of Nebraska,

“Wood burning stoves may not only save people money on their heating
bills this winter, but also are a clean alternative to electric or gas
furnaces,”
Adams said.

Scott Josiah, state forester with the
Nebraska Forest Service at UNL, said “There also are environmental
benefits to using wood heat. Wood heat produces little pollution and is
environmentally friendly, especially when wood is used in a
high-efficiency wood burning stove and where firewood is a readily
available resource.”

 

What is the BTU rating of your furnace?First of all, we rate our furnace
differently than most manufacturers.

We do it in a way that is much easier for the consumer to figure out.

It is usually best to look at the square footage rating. We rate our
165 at 4,000 square feet. This is for average winter conditions, like in
PA and Ohio, in a well-insulated home

Customers in Wisconsin, Michigan, Minnesota and upstate NY and the
extreme NE, should consider the 165 as a 3500 sq foot model.

Folks in TN, NC, Arkansas, etc, can easily heat 5,000 sq. feet with the
same furnace.

BE AWARE that many manufacturers will take a furnace similar in size to
our 165 model and will tell you that it will heat 7 or 8 thousand feet.
What they DON’T tell you, is that you will have to load it more than twice
a day. I’ve heard from quite a few customers that were sold too small a
furnace (just so the company could make a sale) and then they ended up
loading it every 6-8 hours. This is not fair to you!

Please keep in mind that this is for a house with average to well-insulated.
If you have an older or drafty house, you will have to adjust the size to
get a firebox that is bigger, to hold more wood (burns longer), for less
loading.

Your wood source makes a big difference too. While hedge or orange wood
HAS 32 Million BTUs per cord, Hickory has almost 28 Million, Red Oak and
Maple has
24 Million BTUs while Ash and others are in the high teens – so you can
see a big difference in the wood you use and load times! You can almost
cut your load times in half using hedge. Most any hardwood has more BTUs
than all species of softwoods. See out BTUlist for wood

The Shaver 165 is rated at 163,200
BTU storage capacity. The actual output can be greater, for a short period
of time – which is the rating OTHER manufacturers give you.

Don’t believe the outlandish claims of 300,000 BTU from a
100 or 120 gallon furnace! They simply aren’t true. I just read about one
that said it was 400,000 BTU with a 95 gallon tank. Preposterous!
Where did these people go to school?

The water would have to be well over 500 degrees to do this. And at
what temperature does water boil? 212º F of course. And we don’t want the
water boiling! This is just a cheap sales tactic.

A BTU is the amount of heat needed to raise the temperature of 1 pound
of water by 1 degree Fahrenheit.

That means that if the normal water temperature is 60 degrees F and it
needs to be raised to 180 degrees, that it will take 163,200 BTU to do
this. Remember that a pound of water is about 16 ounces. A gallon of water
is approx 8 lb.

(170 gal. x 8) = 1360 lb.

Temperature change = 120 degrees

1360 x 120 = approx. 163,200 BTU

Find out how many BTUs you need HERE
or check the label on your current furnace or boiler.

 

What
comes with the furnace?The Shaver Pro Series Water furnaces 
include the pump
(which most other manufacturers don’t give you), a second
set of ports
and the built-in heat exchanger for the domestic hot water.
these are not options, as with other companies.

Not including a pump is
like selling a car without a steering wheel; you need it!!

We’re also including the Cold Weather Package NOW at NO CHARGE for
furnaces sold in states that border Canada, sold In Canada and Sold in
Alaska!

We are also now including a chimney cap standard and a solenoid
activated (simple) automatic damper, on the forced air induction fan
, in
the back of our furnace.

We have heard from many customers that this Burns a lot less wood. We
have offered this as an option for several years, after our customers
started putting these on their own furnaces (homemade). They asked us to
start offering this as an option and because of all of the fabulous
reviews, we have now made it standard. We are also including a fan that is
50% bigger; 75 CFM versus 50 CFM. All of this is at no additional charge
and will save you even more wood now!

 

What
else will I need to buy?Our parts supplier, who we work
closely with, sells anything and everything
needed. We normally ship them to your door ahead of the furnace. If you
get everything ready, you can have the furnace installed and heating
in an hour or two, once it arrives!

Please call Ted at Abbott Boiler Parts for your parts needs. He has
anything and everything that you would need. Ted’s phone number is
828-687-4074.

Here is a list of the parts you need normally will need.

1. Installation kit (includes 2 shut-off valves, a drain and 2
SharkBite fittings) at $44.59 ea.

2. Hot water kit (includes a thermostat, pump flange and fittings to
attach everything; top and bottom) $89.99 (BRASS)

3. Heat exchanger   U.S. made: $175 and up (Lifetime
Warranty)

A boiler or radiant system normally requires a water to water or plate
heat exchanger (two different names for the same thing).

4. Hydrocoil kit (SharkBite fittings for the heat exchanger) $26.21 pr.
(elbows)  $18.18 pr.  (straight)

5. Pump for the H/W heater  $90 (3 -speed & 3-yr. warranty)

6. Pre-made insulated Pex pipe for $7.95/ft. for a 4″ pipe with two 1″
Pex pipes and two 3/4″ Pex pipes – U.S. made. Our parts supplier offers
a 17% discount to Shaver furnace customers
, making the price of the
Pex pipe only $6.67/ft.

3L Insulated Pex 2 X 1″ & 1 X 3/4″  Reg. $6.95/ft. Our parts
supplier offers a 10% discount to Shaver furnace customers, making the
price of the Pex pipe only $5.97/ft a foot.

2L Insulated Pex 2 X 1″ lines reg. $5.95/ft. Disc at $4.97/ft.

(If you only need two Pex pipes, for a garage, for example, you can use
our pre-made insulated Pex pipe for $5.95 a foot (for a 4″ pipe with two
1″ Pex pipes – U.S. made.) Remember you still need a fill line or a way to
top off the furnace, if it isn’t being hooked up to a hot water heater.

Our parts supplier offers a 17% discount to Shaver furnace customers,
making the price of the Pex pipe only $5.35 a foot.

These prices are plus shipping.

Note: The Pex pipe fittings we use are simple, push-on-by-hand Pex
fittings

 

In addition to these parts, you will need to buy these parts locally:

12/3 wire

cement for the pad or solid concrete pavers/blocks

inexpensive 2-wire thermostat ($15)

Assuming that the furnace is going to be 50 feet from your home, you
are looking at approx $443 for the parts 1-5 plus the Pex Pipe ($358 +
shipping), if you want pre-made, pre-insulated pipe that you simply drop
in the ground and cover up..

Also see the installationpage.

 

Do
you sell insulated water lines that run to the house?
YES, our insulated pipe is US made –
there is NO CHINESE JUNK, unless you want it. It is wrapped four times with insulation, as opposed to
others that are wrapped two or three times. The Pex pipe is of the highest
quality, made in the US! See the installationpage.

 

Can
I install the furnace in the middle of winter, so I can start saving money
right away?
You can install the furnace with
pre-made, pre-insulated pipe that you can lay right on the ground, without
burying it until spring
, when the ground thaws! It is so well insulated, that according to our
customers, the snow doesn’t
even melt on it!

 

Do
I need a cement pad?No, but a cement pad is recommended
and is always best.
It will stop moisture from permeating out of the ground. If properly
sized, it will give you a stable place to set the furnace. It will give
you ample room to stand out of the mud and/or snow.

Some of our customers use solid concrete blocks (pavers) and railroad
ties. It is recommended that you thick plastic down before using concrete
blocks/pavers or railroad ties.

 

Is wood burning bad for the environment?A wood heating system is the right choice for the increasing number of
consumers who are concerned about our environment. Wood is a totally
renewable resource, which, when burned, results in no net carbon dioxide
increase. Carbon dioxide is a part of the natural plant-growth cycle and
occurs naturally when trees are allowed to rot on the forest floor.

Burning wood gives of no more carbon than a rotting tree laying on
the forest floor!

On the other hand, fossil fuels release carbon dioxide when burned,
which otherwise would stay trapped in the earth. This causes a net
increase in carbon dioxide, which is believed to be responsible for the
heat-trapping “greenhouse effect.”

When heating with wood versus fossil fuels, you actually achieve
a net reduction in greenhouse gas emissions. 

In addition, harvesting firewood has a pruning effect on forests, which
allows net growth to flourish. The wood you burn likely comes from your
local area — it’s not imported and not subject to price increases due to
events outside your control, as is the case with oil.

Many times the owners have land with fallen trees spread throughout
abundantly – which means FREE WOOD!

 

How long will the furnace last?We have a 20-YEAR WARRANTY with an
exclusive ON-SITE parts AND labor warranty on the furnace, 100 FREE for
5-years and the generously pro-rated. Electrical components are guaranteed
for one or two years, depending on the manufacturer.

The life of your furnace depends upon proper maintenance. With proper
maintenance your furnace will give you many years of dependable service.

We have Shaver Furnaces in service that are well over 25 years old,
barw or with wood
siding
– the way we used to make them!

 

What about
Stainless Steel Wood Furnaces?
Stainless steel may
not last longer than mild steel in
an outdoor furnace, because all stainless is NOT a “forever” product.
There are many grades and some of them are subject to rusting and
corrosion. Automobile exhaust systems are made from one of the lower
grades; they resist high temperatures but totally corrode. 

Stainless is expensive so the stainless steel fireboxes are made very thin;
typically only 1/16″ thin. Our standard firebox
is OVER SIX TIMES THICKER!
Stainless
gets stress cracks in it which get bigger and bigger until you have a BIG
leak!

STAINLESS STEEL OUTSIDE BOILER CRACKS

STAINLESS STEEL OUTDOOR FURNACE CRACKS

We have replaced leaking  stainless steel
furnaces only 5 and 6 years old!

Most outdoor
furnace manufacturers went to stainless steel to get in on the stainless
quality “image”, but since it’s expensive many of them went to a low-cost,
cheap-grade stainless – which is still subject to rust and corrosion!
During the manufacturing and welding process for stainless steel, IF
the
proper quantity and blend of corrosion-resistant and stabilizing elements
are used, then it does indeed become a “forever” product. This is not
normally done
and post-weld annealing is needed to
restore ductility, formability, toughness and corrosion resistance.

If you do purchase one of the lower grade stainless steel furnaces, be
sure that exact model has a proven track record of
corrosion resistance. The furnace design is every bit as important as
the material that it’s made from.

Our original 30 year-old furnaces are
still in operation today – thanks in part to a standard 4/10th inch firebox.

 

 

How long is the warranty?We  have a 20-YEAR limited
warranty ON-SITE
including parts and labor on the entire structure. There is also a
100%, 5 year conditional ON-SITE warranty . The electrical parts such as the pump, thermostat
and fan have a one
year manufacturer’s warranty.

We don’t have you ship the furnace back, like some companies. What good
is a warranty if it’s going to cost you a thousand dollars for shipping?

We also don’t send you a roll of 26 gauge metal, like one owner told
me, along with a list of local welders! Can you believe that’s how some
people (dis)honor their warranty?

We send a man out, to your furnace and it’s repaired on the spot in the
rare case that a leak should ever develop!

 

What can I expect to pay for an outdoor wood furnace?Total prices will vary depending on the shipping location but our prices start
at a low, low $4147 for the forced air furnace and $5177 for the water
furnace..

We also offer financing

 

How
much do I need to pay NOW, to start my custom furnace?
The minimum deposit is $1947 on the 165
model and TW1000. All other models require a $2447 deposit.

You can pay with credit card (we take them all), debit card, cash, check by mail, check by
phone and PayPal.

The balance is due when the furnace is due to be loaded on the truck – before delivery.
Certified funds only (NO
CASH) if you are paying our driver. We do not want the drivers carrying
cash for safety reasons.

If shipping by freight, the balance must be paid before the furnace is
picked up by the freight company.

 

Why is the water jacket so
big? 170 gallons is a lot more than others!  But then there are
bigger ones too – what’s up?Many stoves do not have enough water capacity and tend to cycle too
often and run out of stored heat. You load the stove with wood and fire it. With a small water
capacity, the water reaches set point temperature and the stove shuts
down. You still have a good load of wood in the firebox that sits there
and smolders and then cycles over and over.

The Hardyâ„¢ just has 100 gallons in their base
model and 130 in the next model up! Some others only have a dismal 60-70
gallons!

On cold days the heat is quickly
drained from the water an now you have cold water trying to heat your house
– until it warms up again.

More water also means more capacity (available BTUs) but at the same
time the water
doesn’t have to be heated as much, over and over again, either.

The Shaver Outdoor Furnace has a large water tank capacity, so you can
burn the total load of wood with good draft, burn and efficiency.

 

How heavy is your furnace?Our furnaces weigh in at a hefty
1641 lb – 2365 dry, uncrated, which is a testimony as to
how much steel is really in the furnace. Our 1/2″ model is 1920 –
2940 lb. The Hardy H2 furnace only weighs
650 lb. The Hardy H4 is only 850. Hmmm…

See our pictures of
the furnace hanging from the chimney alone.

Won’t the firebox burn out eventually?The Shaver Outdoor Furnaces are
made with heavy gauge steel and will never rust out, to be sure. Can you
imagine a piece of metal about 4/10″ thick
(that’s over 3/8″) ever rusting though? Many boilers out there are only 1/5″
thick and their stainless steel counterparts are only 1/16 inch thick!  There are many Shaver  Furnaces over 30 years old in service, still going
strong.

Our optional firebox is HALF OF AN INCH THICK!

What about stress cracks? Since water surrounds the firebox, the metal can only get so hot since
it’s being continually cooled by the water. The extreme thickness of the
metal we use (almost 4/10 inch or optional 1/2″) helps avoid stress cracks as well.

those supers then fireboxes that other manufacturers have, often crack
and the cracks end up going all the way through and the next thing you
know water is leaking into the firebox!

 

Why
don’t you use boiler plate?
Our 3/8″ and 1/2″ fireboxes have more tensile strength
than the others with their “boiler plate” fireboxes that are
only 1/4″ and thinner!

In other words, our fireboxes are
stronger than boiler plate!

We have the thickest firebox in the world! Boiler Plate has a higher tensile
strength than mild or regular steel and so it is less prone to rupturing.
That is needed in a pressurized unit, like actual boilers and old steam
engines.

The industry has thrown the name around (boiler plate) as if it was needed
when it is absolutely not needed. It is of no use in a non-pressurized
unit.

http://www.nextlevelsolutionz.com/Why-Use-Boiler-Plate-Outdoor-furnace.htm

 

Antifreeze
as a Rust Inhibitor?

Unscrupulous dealers will
tell you that the sole purpose of antifreeze is to keep the furnace from
freezing up. Not true; the main reason is rust prevention. Rust is the
no/no word in the outdoor furnace business.

Antifreeze is generally not needed as it
takes a long time to freeze 170 gallons of water and there is
plenty of expansion room in the top of the tank anyway.

There are several other alternatives to prevent
freezing and cost far less cost. An in-line electric heater can be installed
on the return line and set at just above the freezing mark as an extra
safeguard.

Even better, you can also simply leave the
pump running if you go on vacation and it will extract heat from the
furnace keeping the water warm. The pump uses about the same power as a
80W light bulb.

Antifreeze is an excellent rust inhibitor
but it does have a disadvantage. It is designed to keep engines cooler.
When used in an outdoor furnace, it has been stated that it takes 18
percent more firewood to heat the system water/antifreeze mixture than to
just heat water. 

Do not use regular automobile antifreeze.
The best glycol additive is Dowfrost from the Dow Chemical company. It is
environmentally friendly, allows higher operating temperatures, has
excellent anti-corrosion features and has a longer life expectancy than
other glycols.

We have also heard that Beet Juice is an
excellent and inexpensive antifreeze! Beet Juice has a neutral Ph just
like water.

See our new Outdoor FurnaceWater Treatment! It eliminates annual water testing, water treatments
and keeping the Ph balanced through the season!

 

Is this furnace (boiler) pressurized or non-pressurized?The Shaver Outdoor Furnaces are
safer, non-pressurized units. Technically they are
atmospheric vented, which means they are totally safe and never build
pressure.

 

Is
there a safety latch or anti-blowback latch?
Door Anti Blowback Catch — This unique feature on all Shaver outdoor wood furnaces assures you that we are thinking about safety first. The
cam style catch releases the door gradually, allowing for the gases to escape safely preventing possible blow back and serious injury.

 

Is there a lot of heat loss when the unit is outside and it’s below
32° F?The units are highly insulated to avoid heat loss. In fact
the snow doesn’t even melt on the outside in the winter. That means that heat is being kept inside.

With our optional Cold Weather Package (free in Canada) you get R22 in
the walls and an amazing R50 in the ceiling!

I have heated up my furnace in the middle of winter and turned it off.
When I checked the temperature the next day, there is very little heat
loss.

 

Can I connect the
Shaver to a forced air heating system?Yes, more than 90% of all installations are connected to existing forced
air heating systems.

Any system with ductwork and a fan is considered a forced-air system,
including heat pumps, geothermal units, indoor “water” furnaces.

Of course, our ThermoWind
furnaces
are specifically designed to hook up directly to your
existing ductwork or they can be used without any ductwork at all,

Our heating system is MUCH hotter than heat pumps and geothermal
systems!

This type (forced air furnace) is easy to install; almost
as easy as Hydronic units and
free-hanging units in a garage or shop.

Most of our customers (80-90%) install the furnace themselves.

The electrical hookup is simple 110V wiring. If you can hook up a light
switch and a light socket, you can do this install.. Plumbing hookup is
accomplished with easy push-on-by-hand fittings..

You can lay the lines yourself and pour the concrete pad, if you’re
going to use one.

The hardest job is putting the heat exchanger into the duct work. That
takes a little skill, to make the new ductwork to house the exchanger.
Sometimes it’s a slide-in affair!

A local handyman (or heating and air guy; more expensive) can easily handle it all.

Everything is very simple and easy to do. There is a 5this9 page manual
that will help you every step of the way. You can also call me or the
factory for assistance.

 

Will
my existing furnace take over as a backup?
Lets
just imagine that there is a big snow storm and you can’t get home to put
wood in the fire. Eventually, the fire will die down and a while later the
water will cool off to below 110F and you will no longer have any
significant heat coming into the house.

The
thermostat for your
existing furnace would sense the drop in temperature and automatically
turn your furnace on (without relays, switched or circuit boards).

Once
you feed the outdoor furnace and restore the fire, it would again take
over again from your existing furnace.

This works exactly the same with boiler systems.

 

How
do I keep my furnace going in the event of a power failure?

We sell a battery charger and
inverter combo that is easy to install and use!

Utility Power -When
stove sentry is used with a 90 A-HR Marine Battery, its highly
efficient circuitry can provide up to 8 hours of operation in
the absence of electricity.

How it Works:

When electricity is
present the Surefire Stove Sentry charges a battery and surveys
the power line. At the instant that a power failure occurs, the
Surefire Stove Sentry converts the energy stored in the battery
to AC power. This assures operation of the wood furnace or
pellet stove without interruption during the absence of
electricity.


When AC utility
power is restored, the Surefire Stove Sentry reinstates AC
utility power as the prime energy source to operate the wood
furnace or pellet stove. Simultaneously and automatically the
Surefire Stove Sentry commences the recharging of the battery,
to return it to full capacity in preparation for the next power
failure.

You can also
install a small solar panel to charge the battery, instead of
using line power and use a less expensive inverter.

Bear in mind that
you may also need a power supply (backup) for your furnace fan!
A small generator will do the trick.

This is how you become self-sufficientwith your outdoor wood burning furnace. Have heat when
no one else does!

 

I only have baseboard electric heat, how can I use the
Shaver? What about NO heat?Many people with electric baseboards
(or no heating system at all) elect to install
non-drafty, even-heating and comfortable radiant floor heat
between the floor joists. Many others choose water or Hydronic baseboard heaters which
look almost exactly like electric baseboard heaters.

They also now have heaters that look just like baseboard molding with
hidden heat!

They also make floor molding that heats your rooms by the hot water running
through it and it’s virtually invisible.

Others choose the old-timey radiators like they use to use! The also
now manufacturer new radiators. It all depends on your decor.

Of course, as mentioned above you can use the
ThermoWind furnace in
many applications.

 

Can I heat my domestic water with the
Shaver?Yes, our
system circulates potable hot water in a closed system, between the boiler
and the hot water heater. This keeps the hot water refreshed, hot and
ready to go at all times. No outside heat exchanger is needed, saving you $300 on a side-arm heat exchanger
and tempering (anti-scald) valve. 

We have a 50 foot copper water coil in the water
jacket which works much better than a sidearm exchanger or brazed plate
heat exchanger.

A circulating pump ($90) is mounted on the hot
water heater and a thermostat turns it on when the temperature drops 10
degrees in
the H/W heater. The cool water is pumped through the built-in heat
exchanger (included) and back into the water heater, fully
heated.  

The pump can pump all of the water out of your hot water heater in
4-5 min. and heat it up – faster than most any traditional hot water
heater can, giving you a virtually in the supply of hot water.

Heating your hot water with our built-in hot
water coil is very efficient. 

Your hot water heater will stay off all winter
while you enjoy a virtually endless supply of free hot water! This saves
you $35 – 65 a month depending on what kind of heat you have an how much
hot water you use. If you want us to delete the hot water coil, we will take $100 off
the price.

With our system there is no chance of getting
scalding water out of your tap – like with other systems!

Your hot water heater functions as normal
in the summer and will revert back to using your traditional hot water
heater, automatically – even a few simply run out of wood temporarily!

 

Can I connect the
Shaver to a pressurized heating system?Yes, by the use of a water-to-water heat
(or plate) exchanger the heat can be
transferred from the water in one system to the other.

In fact, a boiler is the easiest system to hook up to.

A water-to-water heat exchanger is all that is needed to tie the two
systems together. It keeps the systems separate and allows your boiler to
work exactly as it does now – the way it was designed to. If it’s
pressurized, it will stay that way and any other systems like auto-fill
and anti-flowback will work as they do now.

See the
diagram and picture.
The heat exchanger is simply plumbed in right before your boiler, in the
return line. The return water from your system is reheated, tricking your
boiler into thinking there is no heat loss and therefore no reason to come
back on. That way you don’t need any switches relays are or other devices
to control it.

Connecting it directly to the existing system and depressurizing it is a
big no-no and will cause you problems with air pockets, etc.

Should I consider radiant heat?YES! While Radiant heat can be more
expensive initially, it is probably the most comfortable heat!  There isn’t any
air blowing around and your floors (even a concrete slab) will be toasty
warm!

Installed under new or existing floors, it can be a great way to heat
your home. Radiant floor heat is the most efficient way to transfer heat,
however, it is important that you design the system correctly. Many people
with electric baseboard heaters opt for this method (or baseboard Hydronic
heaters)

It isn’t drafty or noisy and gives you clean and comfortable heat down
low, where you are at – where you need it!

Radiant heat does not travel up to and out of the ceiling!

See http://www.warmzone.com/radiant_air.asp

Joisted floor system for radiant heat floor heating systemsjoisted floor system Simple,
Easy to InstallRadiant Heating Packagesfor the Do
It Yourselfer
or call TED at 828-687-4074
Concrete floor system for radiant heating underfloor heat systemsconcrete floor installation

See how to hook up radiant heat of ALL kinds, to the Shaver Furnace

HERE

 

Can the Shaver heat my pool and/or spa?Yes, many Shaver Outdoor Furnace customers heat their pool and/or spa.
You can put wood in the furnace every 3 days or more in the summer. I
guess this is where many manufacturers get the outlandish claims of 72 –
96 hours burn time.

We have special kits for hooking up a Shaver with your pool so it will
maintain the temperature within 1 degree F! Use must use a titanium heat
exchanger in a chlorinated pool.

Remember that smoke output will be greater in the summer due to
the smoldering fire and plan accordingly when placing your furnace.

 

Can I heat more than one building?One of the many advantages of the Shaver Outdoor Furnace is the ability
to heat multiple buildings from one location. Simply add a pump to the
extra set of ports – THAT COMES STANDARD – and Pex
lines to your location and you will have an additional heated area or
building.

You can add additional sets of ports for only $45 a set!

It is recommended that you use a different pump for each building

 


Can the Shaver Furnace melt snow and ice on my walkway, sidewalk and
driveway; keeping it clear?YES! See
THIS
PAGE!
I
have two heat pumps or furnaces. Would I need a pump for both?
We have customers with two and even
three different furnace systems. Some have a combination of heat pumps and
oil/gas furnaces.

A single pump and set of pipes can be used to feed all of the heat
exchangers needed.

(The furnace can be set at 160F and that water can be used in the first
heat exchanger, usually the biggest heat exchanger (normally the one heating the most square
footage) is fed first, with 160F water. The output from that heat exchanger
(usually 140F or hotter) is fed to the second heat exchanger and the
return then goes back to the outdoor furnace.

If a third furnace/heat pump is used the output from the second heat
exchanger is used. The water temperature should be set at 180F at the most.

Heat
exchangers are tested and rated at 140F. so the lower temperatures at the
last heat exchanger are fine, especially when you consider that a heat
pump will only put out 110° air at the most!

The only difference between the three systems or heat exchangers, is
that the fan will have to run longer because of the lower temperatures
(and therefore lower BTU output) available.

Of course, separate pumps and lines can be used so that the hottest
water is fed into each heat exchanger and the pumps can be wired to only run
on demand.

 

Can I use an outdoor wood furnace if I live in town?Wood furnaces may not be the best fuel choice in densely populated urban areas
where neighbors could be annoyed  complain. Smoke can also overwhelm your neighbors if the
wind blows the wrong way. Remember, automobile exhaust and other pollution
already puts excessive
strains on air quality.

However, in suburban, small town, and rural areas,
wood makes good sense. If you choose to install your Shaver furnace in a
densely populated area the stack height should exceed the rooflines of
existing homes within 200 feet.

 

How often do I have to fill it up?We put wood in our furnace at 8 AM
and 8 PM in the dead of winter, with plenty of wood still left over. So 2
times a day max, if using good dry hardwood and with a well-insulated
building. Some people do it just once a day, depending on the outdoor
temperature, the size of their home and the type of wood used.

there are
many situation where a person will only load their furnace once a day. I
know of a case where a person has a 3000 square foot home, in the mountains
of North Carolina, and is using a 250 model.

That would normally heat 6000 square feet  in a climate like North
Carolina, and so it has double the output of what is needed for that 3000
square foot home. Therefore you only have to load it once a day because you
can put enough wood in it to burn for 12 hours, (burning a good hardwood
like Oak or Maple)

If you used a hardwood like Locust, Hickory or Hedge, you could increase
that by 25%!

Don’t
believe exaggerated claims of 72-96 hours!  This just isn’t possible
– except in the summer, heating only water and a pool, hot tub or spa.

The size of your house, outdoor temperatures and the size of the house
will determine how much wood you use and how often you fill the furnace
along with whether you heat hot water.

See the question about regarding BTU
output
.

 

Does the furnace come fully assembled?Yes. Like most major appliances the unit is delivered to you ready to
install.

 

Can boilers explode?The Shaver Outdoor Furnace is a non-pressurized systems which totally
eliminates this possibility.

 

Does
your furnace burn continuously or does it shut off and on according to if
the furnace is operating or some other method?
The forced-air fan in the back of the
Shaver furnace controls the water temperature by controlling the fire.

When the water temperature drops, the fan comes on and feeds air
(oxygen) into the fire, resulting in a raging fire. Once the water heats
up to the temperature you set it at, the fan goes off, allowing the fire
to just smolder, so that wood isn’t burning off unnecessarily.

With our new automatic, solenoid activated damper, on the forced air
induction fan (now standard equipment), the door closes 100% when the fan
shuts off and air is no longer bleeding into the firebox when the fan is
off. This helps control water temperature because you don’t have a fire
going all the time and the wood is no longer smoldering and so you are
going to burn less wood.

At all times, you will have a ready supply of hot water, ready to be
utilized.

The fan stays off until the water needs to be heated up again and then
comes on again, when the water needs to be reheated..

 

Does
your pump run continuously?
We have designed our system so that
the pump can be set to run on demand and not 24 hours a day like other manufacture’s
furnaces.

You have your choice. If your Shaver furnace is a long distance from
your home, you may choose to have the pump run continuously so that there
isn’t any delay getting heat.

 

Can I
extend the chimney of flue pipe?

YES, you can add standard 6″
flue pipe using our flue adapter. Double or triple-wall pipe is ALWAYS recommended
when going though any roof or wall and it will greatly reduce creosote
buildup!

 

Do these furnaces need to be near the house?We recommend that the Shaver
Outdoor Furnace be within 30-250 feet of the house but it can be within 5
feet according to UL tests.

Claims in product brochures and manufacturer’s
websites that these units can be 500 ft from the house are hard to believe
without ridiculous amounts of heat loss and wasted wood. We do have a customer that is 325 feet from his home,
heating 4880 sq. ft. with the 165 model – and he is real happy!

It is hard to see much heat energy being left after a run of
500 ft. even with underground temperatures of 50-60 degrees below the
frost line – let alone at 12-18″ in frozen ground, where most
manufacturers say
to put the lines.

 

Is
there an elevation concern for the placement of the furnace? 

As an example, if the hot air furnace was 20 feet
above or below the furnace would there be a problem with maintaining the
water level in the furnace?

Generally speaking,
there is no issue with different elevations, since there is very little
water in the lines. The pump tends to stop the water from flowing back and
forth and there is a suction effect (like in a siphon) that stop the water
from flowing freely when the pump is off.

 

We even have heat
exchangers 30 feet up in the attics of homes, without effect.

 

If there should ever be
an issue, a simple one-way valve will eliminate any issue.

 

 

Do
you offer financing?
We can finance furnaces through an outside company, that we’ve worked with
for years. They can finance a furnace for up to 48 months, with as little
as ZERO DOWN. Typically they like to see 2 month’s payments (approx $300)
for a down payment but in some cases they can ask for $1000 down. It all
depends on your credit. They give fast answers and are real good to work
with.

Straight Financing!*

Available for New & Used equipment purchases above $1,500.00.

 

Calculated with monthly payments based on

12, 24, 36, 48 months.

Payments start in 30 days after signing of contract.

Interest rate is fixed for the term of the loan.

Interest starts at the time of the contract.

No pre-payment penalty.

 

Program available in continental 48 states.

________________________________________

 

90 DAYS – NO INTEREST & “0” DOWN*

Available for total purchases above $1,500.00.

 

Monthly payment required. Simply payoff the finance amount

within 90 days and there is NO Interest!

If the principal amount of the contract IS NOT paid within the NO
INTEREST period, the finance charge will accrue from the date of signed
contract.

No pre-payment penalty.

________________________________________

 

6 MONTHS – NO INTEREST &  “0” DOWN*

Available only through participating dealers

Contact your dealer before completing the Credit Application.

Available for New & Used equipment purchases above $1,500.00.

Monthly payment is required. Simply payoff the finance amount within
180 days and there is NO INTEREST! If the principal amount of the contract
IS NOT paid within the NO INTEREST period, the finance charge will accrue
from the date of signed contract.

No pre-payment penalty.

We can get an approval within 24 hours max..


You can download the app and get more information at
Financing-outdoor-wood-furnace.htm and fax it in or you can call the
toll-free number on the app with your info.

You can also apply online at


http://www.accessequipmentfinancing.com/consumer.php?referredBy=WeldRite,Inc
.

If using the paper app, please put Randy as the
dealer and 608-519-4664 for the phone number at the top of the app.

You can also call Access Equipment & Financing LLC, Toll-Free at
1-866-892-0315

Their Fax number is: 937-552-9484

 

Special programs available for the following states:

AZ, CA, FL, GA, IA, IN, KY, ME, MI, MN, MO,

MS, NC, OH, OR, PA, TN, TX, VA, WA, WI, WV

 

$150 doc fee on all financing.

 

WHY
OUR FURNACE IS THE ABSOLUTE BEST!SIMPLE! We make our furnace simple,
so anyone can work on it.


First
and foremost the firebox thickness is the most important factor. We
have the thickest optional firebox in the industry at just shy of 1/2″ –
compared to 1/4″ from our nearest competitor. That’s 100%
thicker and that’s important because the firebox is always the first thing
to fail. Most furnaces are only .125 to .1875″ thick, with only 2
others that are .250″ thick.

We have a 20 year parts AND labor warranty. Most others just cover
parts or their warranty is much shorter – read the fine print!!

There is a forced-air blower in back that feeds air into the
firebox, below the grate, to feed oxygen into the bottom of the fire.
Feeding the fire from the bottom (just like a blacksmith would) is the
best way to get complete combustion from the wood. This is infinitely
better than a fan on the front door blowing air into the side of the fire
– or a manual draft. The fan is thermostatically controlled to keep the
water at a set temperature and is adjustable.

The grate is made out of 3/4 inch bar stock. We have NEVER had one
burn through! Most furnaces don’t even have grates, forcing you to kill
the fire, open the firebox door (letting out all of your precious heat),
clean out the ashes and then restart a fire in the dead of winter!

The ash pan is approx. 16″ wide x 34″ long and is 8″ high.
Many furnaces don’t even have one, requiring you to let the fire die down
in order to clean it.

We also have a 50 foot POTABLE water coil (for your water heater) made out
of 50 feet of coiled 5/8″ OD copper tubing!

With our built-in heat exchanger for your domestic hot water (on
the water furnaces), you
don’t need a separate heat exchanger for the hot water heater, often
called a side-arm exchanger or plate exchanger.. We have 3 water outputs.
One is potable water using a sealed copper tube and lines to your water
heater. The other outputs give you the whole 170 gallon tank of water that
is circulated with a pump to the inside heat exchanger.

The firebox is round and is 36″ wide x 26″ high (due to
the grate and ash pan in the bottom) x 34″ deep. It is made from
almost 4/10th of an inch of solid steel. We’ve never had one rust through!
Square fireboxes take 12 or more welds to put it together. Every weld is a
potential leak. A round firebox only takes two continuous weld on each end
for the end plates! A tube is MUCH stronger than flab slabs of steel that
can bend and warp.


We
have a 170 gallon water tank! Many manufacturers only use 90-125 gallon
tanks! The size is critical when heating a larger home. DON’T BELIEVE IT
when they say they can heat 4,000 sq. ft. and have 300,000 BTU from 100
gallons. That’s impossible without heating the water to over 300 degrees!
Science is science!

It is totally surrounded by that 170-300 gallons of water (more with larger models), so that it absorbs the maximum amount of heat
possible! The water jacket surrounding the firebox is rectangular and is
made from 1/8 inch thick metal – the standard in the industry for water
tanks – as opposed to auto body thickness sheet metal on others. We are
two times thicker; 11 gauge vs. 16 gauge.

The chimney is made out of 5 inch schedule 40 pipe (1/4″
thick) and is surrounded by water as well. It tops out at about 90″
above ground. You can EASILY add extensions with standard 6″
stovepipe. Smaller flues mean much less heat loss.

The chimney is low in the firebox and exits about 1 foot from the bottom
shelf, so that the smoke – or more importantly, the heat – is trapped so
that it doesn’t quickly escape out the flue. That would be a big loss of
efficiency. This is also a better idea since you don’t have baffles
creating a lot of smoke and getting a creosote buildup on them that’s hard
to clean.

This also creates a huge secondary burn chamber, to more completely
burn the gases and wood! When wood starts to burn it’s the escaping gas
that burns first, then the wood!

The water surrounds the ash “pan” (receptacle) as well.
As anyone with a woodstove or furnace knows, ashes put out a lot of heat!

There is a full-size rear door approx 40 x 48 inches. This makes it
VERY easy to make connections and to service it. There is no need to pull
the whole shell off as with other furnaces!

We have an extra large, waist-high loading door – 19″ x 19″
(17″ c 17″ inside opening) suitable for putting BIG pieces of wood in! Thinks it’s too small?
Remember, a 30″ piece 15″ in diameter will weigh 115 lb! Also,
the door is where most of the heat loss will occur, so smaller is better.

The door material is made with a 1/2 inch frame and a 1/4 inch outside
steel plate plus a 1/4 inch thick inside steel plate separated by the air
gap between the steel plates. This door will never burn through! The
insulating ability is the air gap plus the reflective factor. The inside
plate only 4 bolts attach it to the door so there is very little
heat transfer. We fill the air gap with easily replaceable Fiberglas insulation.

These furnaces now come with a double flood light on the front for
safety and ease of loading the wood. Not only that, it’s a MOTION LIGHT!
No switches. No forgetting to turn it off. If it’s dark outside and you go
near the furnace, it turns on!

 

There
are legs on the bottom with a skirt surrounding the bottom to
ground level to keep it warm and dry.

The exterior is made of  Heavy Duty Siding – 29 gauge with 10
coatings and it has a Lifetime film integrity warranty and 30 years
against fade and chalk

We can build just about anything. Billy did one recently with SIX
outlets!

 

READ
WHY OURFURNACE IS THE ABSOLUTE BEST!
  

 

 

Can
I get the furnace without siding for use in an outbuilding?Yes, you can get the furnace without
siding for $300 less. It is shipped without insulation. See a picture
here.

Shaver Furnace NO TIN - bare

Please be aware, that the furnace will be very ugly without the
siding. It is like opening up a hood of a car; the exterior is wonderful but
the engine is as ugly as sin.

You can also add other types of siding or concrete board and lathe to
the frame in order to add brick, stone, etc.

You need to know that any siding or veneer that you put on, will have
to be removed, if we ever need to do a warranty repair on the furnace. We
do not cover removal of siding that you attach.

You way want to consider having the Hardy board, concrete board
or other panels be removable, with just a few screws!

NOTE:  As of September 2013 – all Shaver
furnaces now come with siding mandatory and this feature is no longer
available!

 


Who is Shaver Furnace?Shaver Outdoor Furnace is one of –
if not THE oldest manufacturer of
outdoor wood furnaces in Northern America. We have been building quality
wood furnaces since 1972 – 41 years!

We have a simpler, nicer
looking furnace that’s made to stand the test of time. We use our own tried and true
40-year old
design. We believe we have the best – and certainly
the best price by far.

We are located in north Arkansas but we ship to the extreme north in
Canada, so we know all about
cold temperatures. We heat our own 5000 sq. ft. home with a Shaver Outdoor Furnace.

 

What is the Shaver outdoor wood
furnace/”boiler”/stove?It is a safe and efficient way to heat your home with wood or/and coal. The Shaver furnace is designed to look like an attractive
outside storage building and is
normally installed outside, away from the home or building being heated.

A lot of our furnaces are installed in garages, barns or other
outbuildings.

Having an
outdoor furnace totally eliminates smoke,  pollution, bugs and wood debris within
the house. A water jacket TOTALLY SURROUNDS the huge furnace firebox; top,
bottom, sides, front and back and the heat
is transferred from the wood fire to the water. There is no other place
that it can go!

 

How can the Shaver heat my home
AND Domestic Hot Water?The heated water is pumped to the home or building through insulated
underground pipes (Pex pipe). A water-to-air heat exchanger (lake a small
radiator) or a water-to-water heat exchanger
conveys the heat into the home’s forced-air furnace, boiler, or radiant
floor heating system.

Your thermostat controls the temperature just like in a conventional
system. You get safe, even, comfortable heat.

Our water furnaces also supply potable hot water to your hot water heater to
provide domestic hot water. This allows for normal thermostatic control so
you don’t get scalding water.

 

What are the advantages of the Shaver
outdoor wood furnace?The Shaver removes fire hazards from your home or building because the
fire is outside!

An outdoor wood furnace also helps your indoor air quality and can
alleviate respiratory and allergy problems caused by burning wood indoors
. No more dark sooty walls and bugs either!

Thermostatic control provides your home with even, steady heat.

Current owners of the Shaver are also using up to 25 to 50 percent less
wood compared to other heating alternatives. Since the Shaver can burn
larger pieces of wood it will dramatically reduce time spent preparing the
wood. Costs for large round timbers are also dramatically less than for
smaller split wood. You can get this type of wood for $70-90 a cord compared
to $120-140+.

The Shaver Furnace means easy maintenance and few parts requiring
service. We don’t have any circuit boards to burn out. You don’t need costly electrical gadgets and features to cause
problems down the road. This is a proven design of over 36 years! Keep it
simple and efficient, is our motto.

All of our parts are off-the-shelf parts that are available anywhere.
There are no proprietary parts that have to be purchased from the factory!

The house will be less drafty when heating with the outside boiler, because there is no combustion
taking place inside, drawing in cold outside air to replace that used in combustion.

 

What do the experts say?According to the University of Nebraska,
“Wood burning stoves may not only save people money on their heating
bills this winter, but also are a clean alternative to electric or gas
furnaces,” Adams said.

Scott Josiah, state forester with the
Nebraska Forest Service at UNL, said “There also are environmental
benefits to using wood heat. Wood heat produces little pollution and is
environmentally friendly, especially when wood is used in a
high-efficiency wood burning stove and where firewood is a readily
available resource.”

 

What is the BTU rating of your furnace?

163,200 REAL BTU. Don’t believe the outlandish claims of 300,000 BTU from a
65 to120 gallon furnace! They simply aren’t true.

A BTU is the amount of heat needed to raise the temperature of 1 pound
of water by 1 degree Fahrenheit.

That means that if the normal water temperature is 60 degrees F and it
needs to be raised to 180 degrees, that it will take 163,200 BTU to do
this. Remember that a pound of water is about 16 ounces. A gallon of water
is approx 8 lb.

(170 gal. x 8) = 1360 lb.

Temperature change = 120 degrees

1360 x 120 = 163,200 BTU

You’d have to heat 100 gallons of water to 435 F to extract 300,000 BTU
– simply not possible.

Find out how many BTUs you need HERE.

 

Is wood burning bad for the environment?A wood heating system is the right choice for the increasing number of
consumers who are concerned about our environment. Wood is a totally
renewable resource, which, when burned, results in no net carbon dioxide
increase
. Carbon dioxide is a part of the natural plant-growth cycle and
occurs naturally when trees are allowed to rot on the forest floor.

On the other hand, fossil fuels release carbon dioxide when burned
which otherwise would stay trapped in the earth. This causes a net
increase in carbon dioxide, which is believed to be responsible for the
heat-trapping “greenhouse effect.” So when heating with wood
versus fossil fuels, you actually achieve a net reduction in greenhouse
gas emissions.

In addition, harvesting firewood has a pruning effect on forests, which
allows net growth to flourish. The wood you burn likely comes from your
local area — it’s not imported and not subject to price increases due to
events outside your control, as is the case with oil.

Many times the owners have land with fallen trees spread throughout
abundantly.

 

How long will the furnace last?

We have a 20-year Limited Warranty plus a 5-year ON-SITE warranty on the furnace – NOT pro-rated.

There is a 30-year warranty on the siding.

Electrical
components such as pumps, thermostat and fans are warranted for 1 year.

The life of your furnace depends upon proper maintenance. With proper
maintenance your furnace will give you many years of dependable service.

We have Shaver Furnaces in service that are over 30 years old, with the
old style wood
siding!

 

What about
Stainless Steel Wood Furnaces?
Stainless steel may last longer than mild steel in
an outdoor furnace, but not all stainless is a “forever” product.
There are many grades and some of them are subject to rusting and
corrosion. Automobile exhaust systems are made from one of the lower
grades; they resist high temperatures but totally corrode.

Most outdoor
furnace manufacturers went to stainless steel to get in on the stainless
quality image, but since it’s expensive many of them went to a low-cost,
cheap-grade stainless – which is still subject to rust and corrosion!
During the manufacturing and welding process for stainless steel, if the
proper quantity and blend of corrosion-resistant and stabilizing elements
are used, then it does indeed become a “forever” product. These
elements optimize weldability without the need for post-weld annealing to
restore ductility, formability, toughness and corrosion resistance.

If you do purchase one of the lower grade stainless steel furnaces, be
sure that the same model made in steel has a proven track record of
corrosion resistance. The furnace design is every bit as important as
the material that it’s made from.

 

How long is the warranty?Shaver Outdoor Furnaces have a limited 20-year warranty! The Shaver
furnace also has a 5-year ON-SITE warranty,
including parts and labor
on the entire structure, in the very rare case of a leak.

There is a 30-year warranty on the siding.

Electrical
components such as pumps and fans are warranted for 1 year.

 

What can I expect to pay for an outdoor wood furnace?Total prices will vary depending on the shipping location but our prices start
at $4,477, picked up at our facility..

 

Why is the water jacket so
big? 170 gallons is a lot more than others!Many stoves do not have enough water capacity and tend to cycle too
often. You load the stove with wood and fire it. With a small water
capacity, the water reaches set point temperature and the stove shuts
down. The Hardyâ„¢ just has 100 gallons in their base
model and 130 in the next model up! You still have a good load of wood in
the firebox that sits there and smolders.

The Shaver Outdoor Furnace has a large water tank capacity, so you can
burn the total load of wood with good draft, burn and efficiency.

More water also means more capacity (available BTUs) but at the same
time the water
doesn’t have to be heated as much either.

How heavy is your furnace?Our furnaces weigh in at a hefty 1610 lb dry, which is a testimony as to
how much steel is really in the furnace. The Hardy H2 furnace only weighs
650 lb. The Hardy H4 is only 850. Hmmm… What does that tell you?

Many of the competition’s fireboxes are only as thick as a trailer fender!!

Won’t the firebox burn out eventually?The Shaver Outdoor Furnaces are made with heavy gauge steel and will
never rust out, to be sure. Can you imagine a piece of metal 4/10″
(.400″) thick ever rusting though? (many boilers out there are only 1/5″
or .200″ thick). That is why there are many Shaver  Furnaces with over 30 years in service, still going
strong.

What about stress cracks? The extreme thickness of the
metal we use helps avoid stress cracks as well. We simply don’t have the
problems other folks have.

 

Antifreeze
as a Rust Inhibitor

Unscrupulous dealers will
tell you that the sole purpose of antifreeze is to keep the furnace from
freezing up. Not true; the main reason is rust prevention. Rust is the
enemy in the outdoor furnace business.

Antifreeze is generally not needed as it
takes a very long time to freeze 170 gallons of water and there is
plenty of expansion room in the top of the tank anyway.

There are several other alternatives to prevent
freezing and at a far less cost. An in-line electric heater can be installed
on the return line and set at just above the freezing mark as an extra
safeguard.

Even better, you can also simply leave the
pump running if you go on vacation and it will extract heat from the
furnace keeping the water warm. The pump only uses  110W, about the
same as a light bulb.

Antifreeze is an excellent rust inhibitor
but it does have a disadvantage. It is designed to keep engines cooler.
When used in an outdoor furnace, it has been stated that it takes 18
percent more firewood to heat the water/antifreeze mixture than to heat
plain water.

Do not use regular automobile antifreeze.
The best glycol additive is Dowfrost from the Dow Chemical company. It is
environmentally friendly, allows higher operating temperatures, has
excellent anti-corrosion features plus it has a longer life expectancy than
other glycols.

We have also heard that Beet Juice is an
excellent and inexpensive antifreeze! Beet Juice has a neutral Ph just
like water.

 

Is this furnace (boiler) pressurized or non-pressurized?The Shaver Outdoor Furnaces are non-pressurized. They are
atmospheric vented, which means they are totally safe and never build up pressure.

 

Is there a lot of heat loss when the unit is outside and it’s below
32° F?The units are very well insulated to avoid heat loss. In fact icicles form
on the outside of the siding in the winter due to the R50 insulation in
the roof. That means that the heat is being kept inside!

 

Can I connect the
Shaver to a forced air heating system?Yes, more than 80% of all of our installations are connected to existing
forced air heating systems.

A heat exchanger (much like a heater core in a car) is mounted in the
ductwork. When the fan blows air through the heat exchanger, you get heat!

 

I only have baseboard electric heat, how can I use the
Shaver?Many people with electric baseboard heat elect to install radiant floor heat
between the floor joists or Hydronic baseboard heaters on the wall.

 

Can I heat my domestic water with the
Shaver?Yes, our system circulates potable hot water in a closed system, between
the outside furnace and the hot water heater. This keeps the hot water refreshed,
hot and ready to go at all times. No heat exchanger is needed on your hot
water heater!

We show you how to plumb it right into your hot water heater – saving $200
for a side-arm exchanger! Most people find they save between $30 and $60 a month heating their water
with an outdoor wood furnace.

 

Can I connect the
Shaver to a pressurized heating system?Yes, in one of two ways. It’s best to use a water-to-water heat
exchanger so that the heat can be transferred from the water in one system
other.

You can connect it directly to the existing system by
depressurizing it but we don’t advise it.

 

Should I consider radiant heat?Radiant heat installed under new or existing floors can be a great way
to heat your home because there are no drafts and the floors (and your feet)
are toasty warm! Radiant floor heat is the most efficient way to transfer
heat, however, it is important that you design the system correctly. This is
also expensive but pays for itself with warm tootsies!

Many people with electric baseboard heaters opt for this method.

 

Can the Shaver heat my pool and/or spa?Yes, many Shaver Outdoor Furnace customers heat their pool and/or spa.
You can put wood in the furnace every 3 days or more in the summer. I
guess this is where many manufacturers get the outlandish claims of 72 –
96 hours burn time!

Remember that smoke output will be greater in the summer due to
the smoldering fire and plan
accordingly.

we have a nice pool and spa kit, which will maintain your water
temperature to within 1°F. this kit uses a Perl to determine the water
temperature and a controller, which will open and close a four way valve.

Water will be sent through the heat exchanger, when you need heat, the
water will bypass the heat exchanger when the water is up to the
temperature you set it at.

All of this is done through a heat exchanger – normally as shell and
tube type – this keeps the water totally separate.

 

Can I heat more than one building?One of the many advantages of the Shaver Outdoor
Water Furnace is the ability
to heat multiple buildings from one location. We have heated up to 6
buildings and a hotel with the Shaver Furnace. Simply add a pump and Pex
line to your location and you will have an additional heated area or
building.

The forced-air furnace can only heat one building.

Can I use an outdoor wood furnace if I live in town?Wood may not be the best fuel choice in densely populated urban areas
where automobile exhaust and other pollution already puts excessive
strains on air quality. Smoke can also overwhelm your neighbors if the
wind blows the wrong way.

However, in suburban, small town, and rural areas,
wood makes good sense. If you choose to install your Shaver furnace in a
densely populated area the stack height should exceed the rooflines of
existing homes if within 100 feet..

 

How often do I have to fill it up?We put wood in our furnace at 8 AM and 8 PM. So 2 times a day. Don’t
believe exaggerated claims of 72-96 hours!  This just isn’t possible
– except in the summer, heating only water and a pool, hot tub or spa.

The size of your house, outdoor temperatures and the size of the house
will determine how much wood you use and how often you fill the furnace
along with whether you heat hot water.

 

Does the furnace come fully assembled?Yes, our water furnaces are delivered to you
ready to install AND includes a circulation pump and a built-in heat
exchanger for your domestic hot water.

Forced-air furnaces include a
furnace fan and a forced air damper in the back/bottom with a solenoid
activated damper.

 

Can boilers explode?The Shaver Outdoor Furnace is a non-pressurized systems which totally
eliminates the possibility of an explosion.

 

Do these furnaces need to be near the house?We recommend that the Shaver Outdoor Furnace be within 100-150 feet of the
house. Claims in product brochures and manufacturer’s
websites that these units can be 500 ft from the house are true but only
if an upgraded pump is used AND the Pex pipe is well-insulated.. 

The furnace can be 10 feet from the house according to
most insurance companies but the chimney must go to the ridgeline of the
home.

 


What is the recommended temperature to set the Shaver Furnace to?We recommend setting the thermostat in the back
of the shaver furnace to 140° F, assuming you have a forced air furnace.
This is the temperature that water to air heat exchangers are tested and
rated at, and so you know that 140° will supply more than sufficient heat
for your home,

if you get into the colder months of the year and somehow
defying that you need more heat, you can simply raise the water temperature
up, which will in turn heat up the heat exchanger and supply more heat your
home.

However, remember, the hotter the water is; the more energy it takes to
heat it. Your hot water is so expensive to run because it is keeping all of
that water hot, even when you’re not using it.

If you have a boiler system, you will typically put the temperature of
the outdoor furnace to what you normally have the temperature set at on your
boiler. You would then turn your inside boiler down 10° lower.

This will trick your boiler into thinking that it is a warm spring day
outside because there is no heat loss and so it will not turn on.

 

What happens if the water inside the furnace
freezes?  Would it damage the pipes and the boiler?There are a couple of ways to go about this.

In quite a few furnaces, we have put a 4 inch cylinder through the side of
the firebox, with a flange on the outside, to mount an aftermarket burner.
The burner can be oil, waste oil or propane.

This will provide heat to the outdoor furnace when you don’t have wood and
it.

It is extremely unlikely that a furnace will freeze solid considering that
you have a minimum of 170 gallons of water in the furnace and there’s room
for expansion to boot. I’ve seen water heaters turned off in unheated houses
that never froze because of the large volume of water.

Otherwise:

1. Most people simply leave the pump running to circulate the water and
since moving water won’t freeze, you’ve eliminated the problem. Heat is also
picked up through the heat exchanger in the house, warming the water. The
standard pump is only 100W, like a normal light bulb, so energy use is very
minimal.

This will pick up heat, from your furnace, through the heat exchanger;
basically working in reverse. Be sure to leave your furnace on, as you do
now. It can be set at a much lower temperature than normal

2. You can also add antifreeze, however antifreeze actually lowers the
water’s ability to carry heat.

Remember, the Pex Pipe is already insulated and buried in the ground below
the frost line, where the ground temperature is always 50 degrees plus. This
way the lines won’t freeze. We recommend using quality pre-insulated pipes.

We can also build your furnace to accommodate an aftermarket propane. Waste
oil or oil burner – as a backup heat source.

You will only need the smallest of generators for a prolonged outage or a
deep-cycle battery as a backup to power the fan and pump (only 120 watts
total power consumption) for shorter outages of several hours or a day or
longer (depending on the battery). This is a must to power up a ThermoWind
furnace because of the big power draw of the furnace fan on it.

For the water furnaces, we have a nice self-contained unit that is both a
charger (to keep your battery charged up) and an inverter (to power up your
furnace.

How it Works:

When electricity is present the Surefire Stove Sentry charges a battery and
surveys the power line. At the instant that a power failure occurs, the
Surefire Stove Sentry converts the energy stored in the battery to AC power.
This assures operation of the wood furnace without interruption during the
absence of electricity.

When AC utility power is restored, the Surefire Stove Sentry reinstates AC
utility power as the prime energy source to operate the wood furnace or
pellet stove. Simultaneously and automatically the Surefire Stove Sentry
commences the recharging of the battery, to return it to full capacity in
preparation for the next power failure.

At sites where utility power is not present, the user should determine if
there is a sufficient reserve of battery capacity to enable the wood furnace
to operate for the desired time period.

You can also use a 100W Solar Panel to keep your battery charged! Multiple
batteries will also give you more time that you can operate without power.

Remember that you also need to power up your furnace fan in your home
(assuming a forced air furnace).

 

Just had
another owner of a Shaver boiler tell me that I needed to be draining my
boiler every year.  Is that the fact?
That is entirely
untrue!

It is detrimental if your furnace, even if you are using regular chemicals
every year.

When you drain your furnace, you are draining water that is pretty much
devoid of oxygen, due to heating it up.

When you refill it with water, there is a lot of oxygen and it and that is
what causes rust.

Using our exclusive Rust Blocker, you never drain the water because then
you’d lose all of the boron in the water!!

At that point, you would need to buy another 5 gallon pail, whereas the
five-year treatment only requires another 2 gallons, which is a lot less
money.

Please advise the other owner that he is wrong and is doing himself harm…

 

Do I have a choice of colors?The Shaver Furnace is available in 20 different colors, to be sure it
will compliment the exterior of your home or match other buildings..
Currently available colors are shown below:

20 colors for your siding!

A total of over 8000 color combinations –
sides, corners and roof

 

Plus
Galvazume which lasts 6 times longer than Galvanized metal!

Also introducing RealTreeâ„¢ Camouflage!

 

 

SHAVER OUTDOOR WOOD FURNACE


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