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FAQ for Forced-Air Furnaces
OUTDOOR WOOD BURNING FURNACE
to Heat up to 3500 sq. ft.
(no water to freeze)
Another Shaver FIRST!
Shown using insulated underground ductwork (Blue
and Shaver exclusive; black pipe kit.
DYNAMIC DUCTWORK STORES ENERGY
TECHNOLOGICALLY FOAMED SELF INSULATED AIR DUCT
It is unique to other materials because it is
food grade plastic that is safe for humans and the environment.
The material is mixed with a foaming additive during manufacturing to achieve
the density and performance parameter desired.
The preformed ductwork has the characteristic of a smooth low friction surface
that is resistant to mildew, mold, and Radon;
under pressure it will not crack and is non-toxic and recyclable. In addition,
the ductwork is self-insulating, adjustable and easy to install.
A thermal efficiency performance of TheBlueDuct has a test proven equivalency
for delivery effectiveness comparable to underground coated spiral ductwork
wrapped in R10.
You can also use standard
galvanized pipe with insulation shown below.
Shaver has done it again! Backed by our 39 years of experience,
we have developed a FORCED-AIR FURNACE that doesn't need water!
Comes complete with a forced-air draft fan and automatic damper
plus a full-size furnace squirrel cage fan (1500 CFM or 2000 CFM)
- IDEAL for homes or shops without
an existing heating system! No ductwork? No radiators? No boiler? No
- Excellent for
those people with cabins or homes that are left unattended.
- Use out built-in furnace fan
instead of an air handler or utilize your current furnace!
- Before spending thousands on a
furnace for your garage or ship plus many more thousands for fuel -
choose a ThermoWind for virtually FREE HEAT!
- Eliminate the threat of fire by having the furnace
away from the house, just like with our outdoor wood fired WATER furnace
(often called a "boiler".
- No carrying wood into the house, along with the bugs,
bark and trash.
- NO SMOKE in the house either!
Only if you have a forced air furnace inside your can you use
because ductwork is needed, so an electric, gas, oil, propane
furnace, etc, and heat pump or geothermal system can be used.
No boilers or radiant
floor heating systems can be hooked up. However, you can add
ductwork to any building (or not even use any ductwork) to heat
We can even help you if you
don't have any heating system now!
In case of a power failure, you can still have a nice
warn house, when everyone else is cold!!
ONLY in the case of power failure and if you want heat, it
requires a 2000 Watt Generator for the ThermoWind 1000
(only $200 at Wal-mart)
or a standard portable 4000 watt generator for the ThermoWind 2000 model, (because of the
startup power that the motors take), with plenty of power left over for lights,
This furnace can go outside and does not
have to be bolted to the house or go in the basement like every other model out
Heat is carried to your home through insulated 12" pipes,
buried underground or you can use regular and less
expensive regular ductwork which you can insulate yourself.
According to the UL (Underwriters
Laboratories) our furnace needs to be 5 feet away from flammables. The
ThermoWind units cannot generally be more than 15 feet from your home because
the temperature losses and airflow losses but in no case can be more than 30
feet away from your existing ductwork.
You only need ductwork, thermostat and
wire and a power wire to install.
No more worries about frozen water!
NO CHEMICALS or annual water tests! No pumps!
Also perfect for folks who have power failures often (you
would need a generator to get heat but there is no worry about frozen water,
Insulated Underground Pipe - Duct!
NOW there is no need to put the furnace right next to
the house or in the basement with our revolutionary insulated underground pipe!
These air pipes/ducts are only 12" in diameter so a
backhoe with a 24" bucket can easily dig a trench
for the pipes to lay side-by-side.
A 12" round duct is equivalent to a duct that is
8" X 15" or 10" X 12" and you will get the same air flow of 2000 CFM.
An 8" X 12" or a 10" X 10" will give max 1500 CFM.
We are the only manufacturer that is doing this!
& Water Tight
Walls on underground pipe.
You only need ductwork, thermostat and
wire and a power wire.
to Heat up to 3500 sq. ft.Ή
to Heat up to 5500 sq. ft. Ή
a bigger 2000 CFM blower and a bigger firebox (42" vs. 28"
it's 50% bigger
(Only $650 more for a 50% bigger
HERE for a bigger image
to Heat up to 6875 sq. ft.Ή
deep firebox with 2000 CFM 3-speed fan
HERE for a bigger image.
to Heat up to 8500+ sq. ft.Ή
Loading twice a day but it
will heat more but it has to be loaded more often
The ThermoWind 4000 is designed to heat a large buildings. It will have two full-size furnace fans on it (2000 CFM each), to better heat
a large building - with a total of 4 ducts ( 2 supply and 2
return). It has a 68" firebox that is 3 feet wide and has two
firebox doors; one on each end, to better and easier load the
furnace. It has two forced air draft fans with automatic dampers
It is rated at 205,000 BTU
The price is
Heating a well-insulated home in a climate as cold as PA, using a
good hardwood like Oak and loading it twice a day.
Shaver Thermowind 1000 - Heats up to 3,500 sq ft.*
45" x 48.5" x 90" tall -
1480 lbs not crated
Crated Approx: 1755 lbs
Shaver Thermowind 2000 - Heats up to 5,500 sq ft.*
45" x 54.5" x 90" tall
1840 lbs not crated
Crated Approx: 2130 lbs
TW 1000: Height 76, Width 52, Length: 73 Weight approx 275 lb
TW 2000: Height 76, Width 52, Length: 85 1/2 Weight approx 290 lb
Model Description Width
Depth Height (approx)
TW-1000 36 cylinder 36
28 26 + 10 for Ash Pan*
TW-2000 36 cylinder 36
42 26 + 10 for Ash Pan
TW-3000 36 cylinder 36
55 26 + 10 for Ash Pan
TW-4000 36 cylinder 36
68 26 + 10 for Ash Pan
Fireboxes are 25" from ground level.
*Non-removable Ash Pan or receptacle
All pads for the TW-1000 to TW-3000 are 48" wide.
Pad length (can be longer)
TW-1000 85 long
TW-2000 92 long
TW-3000 105 long
TW-4000 144" long, 77" width
All specifications subject to change at any time.
Shaver has been building furnaces since 1972!
Our furnaces have stood the test of time.
SHAVER Forced-Air Outdoor Wood Furnaces are WELL BUILT to
save you money
by producing heat efficiently with a minimum of waste, expense, or unnecessary
Although our forced air furnaces are a new line, they are built using the same
and proven techniques that we have been using for 39 years.
Perfect for folks with cabins or homes that are unattended.
Perfect for homes without an
existing heating system!
Will heat your home as well
as a gas or oil furnace. (Will not heat your domestic
No worries about water
freezing ever again! No water tests! No pumps!
THE SHAVER OUTDOOR WOOD BURNING FORCED AIR FURNACE
How does an outdoor furnace heat my home?
The Shaver Outdoor Wood Furnace is designed to save the most energy and
provide the most comfortable heating available. It heats your home by
heating a firebox surrounded by a steel air chamber. When this air chamber
reaches a preset temperature a fan controller turns on the main
circulation blower. This blower forces the air into your existing central
How do the Thermostat Controls work?
The only visible addition to the heating system inside your home is a 2nd
thermostat, which is located near the existing thermostat, if possible.
This thermostat actuates the combustion blower of your outdoor furnace.
When the air inside the air chamber reaches optimum temperatures a fan
controller turns on the main circulation blower. This blower forces the
air into your existing central duct system The original wall thermostat
turns on your original furnace, if the outside wood furnace is not in
operation. Your existing furnace will automatically take over to maintain
your household temperature.
Two buried 12" pipes carry the heat to the house
and the cooler return air comes back.
The insulated underground pipe looks different
This is less expensive galvanized ductwork that you insulate yourself.
See DUCTWORK below
and picture of black pipe kit above.
The FIRST in the industry!
We custom build every furnace for
so when you order, you can
specify YOUR choice of
20 great colors
and over 8000 Color combinations!
ALL FURNACES purchased come
COLD WEATHER PACKAGE!
Now with even MORE INSULATION!
R50 in the roof!
R21.6 in the walls!
More than a house!!
now use SOLARGUARD TOO!
a state-of-the-art insulation that
fights heat loss three ways;
radiation, conduction and convection heat losses.
Check it out at: http://www.silvercote.com/solarguard_reflective_insulation.php
Fed up with High Oil and Energy
Smoke in your house? Bugs, trash, bark from
carrying wood in?
Heat your whole house with a
Forced-Air OUTDOOR WOOD FURNACE!
No more $3.00+ Oil or high dollar
Propane or lugging wood
into the house!
No smoke in your house anymore! No bugs either! NO mess!
This furnace doesn't burn up the oxygen in your house
or suck cold air in from outside!
Save your lungs and help prevent allergies too.
WOOD is still cheap! ...AND
and large unsplit logs - like this furnace uses -
are the cheapest of all!
Have Clean Heat, Clean Air, Clean Floors
and walls too!
NOW with a
YEAR PARTS and LABOR WARRANTY!*
an On-Site Warranty!!
5-Years is 100% paid for.
Who else offers that,
who has been around 39 years?
A lot of warranties only cover parts
You have to ship the furnace back to the factory - at your expense.
Kind of negates the warranty, doesn't it?
Ours covers Parts AND Labor for TWENTY YEARS!*
and it's coverage On-Site - NO SHIPPING!
|Why buy a Shaver Outdoor
|We make it simple without a lot of expensive
electronics to break
|We make it user serviceable. Anyone can maintain
|No filling with water every week - or EVER!
|We make our firebox to last! Ours is thicker! 3/8"
inch vs. 1/8 to 1/4.
|We give accurate BTU ratings using an established scientific formula.
They say what sounds good.
|We have a 2-light motion detector light on the front
|We have a forced-air fan not a dismal damper to fuel the fire
with oxygen. More complete burning!
|Our fan is in the back, behind a door, where you
can't get shocked AND it blows the air through the grate into
the bottom of the fire LIKE A BLACKSMITH'S FORGE - NOT into the side of the fire! Fires burn
from the bottom up, right?
|We have been building fine energy efficient furnaces for
|Our grate uses 3/4" Bar Stock!
Our most popular color -
Evergreen with Black trim
Perfect for folks who have power failures often
or those people with cabins or homes that are unattended.
NO risk of water freezing! No fire risk either!
New construction installation on a mobile home with the
insulated underground ductwork ready to attach to the existing ductwork.
|Why buy an outdoor wood furnace?
- No logs to
carry in means no messy ashes and bugs in the house!
- One of the selling points of
an outdoor furnace is the convenience of locating it near
wood fuel source so you don't have to cart wood all around.
- The chance of carbon monoxide
build-up in your home is eliminated.
allergies by getting the smoke outside!
- The chance of a gas explosion
from your furnace in your home is eliminated.
- Indoor pollutants of harmful
gases and fumes are eliminated too.
- Eliminates the chance of
chimney and flu fires from your furnace.
- If you live in
a suburban or rural area near a source of cheap wood, you
could heat your
home for the entire season for the cost of one month's
electric heat bill.
- An outdoor furnace requires
- No inside
oxygen is used to fuel the heat like other wood or gas
- Does not cause respiratory problems like burning wood indoors.
- Wood is cheaper than buying it for a fireplace. Instead of
12-18' wood split,
you can put 30" pieces in this one and full rounds.
That makes buying wood even cheaper.
wood, a total renewable resource, is less expensive than
- The cost of
electric, gas, oil, or propane can be very erratic. The low
cost of wood remains constant - or FREE!.
- The furnace
hooks up to any existing gas pack, heat pump or forced air system.
pay for their furnace in 2 years or less!
Imagine getting a 50% return on your money!
Where else can you get that? An outdoor furnace is the BEST
You've found the BEST!
Our standard firebox is 50% thicker
than most of the competition
and is over 3/8" thick.
Many are only .125'' - .1875"
Our closest competitor is only
1/4" thick (.250)
You can click Click on some Pictures
below for a LARGER
Please wait while these pictures load. can take up to 3 min on a modem
to load the whole page.
Lights come shipped inside the firebox,
so they don't get broken in shipping.
A water furnace is shown here for color.
Get the Bugs, Dirt, Wood
and Smoke outside.
Your lungs will love you!
Many people are getting
they are getting the fire and
related hazard, out of the house!
Extra large, waist high loading door.
No more bending over, straining your back
to load wood! Lever action safety latch!
A PROVEN design - since 1972!
We feel we build the safest furnace
(nothing electrical outside). We have the BEST PRICES and a Very
Friendly Staff to help you every step of the way.
These furnaces now come with a
double flood light on the front, for
ease and safety of loading the wood
Not only that, it's a MOTION
No switches. No forgetting to
turn it off.
If it's dark outside and you go
near the furnace, it turns on!
New, nicer looking furnace - NO
Now with nice neat looking butyl tape and grommets
door isn't big
A 15" round log, 30" long, will weigh
112lb - more than
most people can
Trust me, the door
than big enough for anything
you can lift into the
furnace AND the
thick door frame
take a pounding as you throw them in!
18" x 18" - The TOUGHEST
door you'll ever find with TWO 1/4" solid steel plates separated
by a 3" air shield AND insulation. This plate keeps the hot air in and
deflects it off the door. With very little metal to transfer
heat to the door it does an excellent job of insulating the
There is fiberglass insulation BETWEEN the plates now!
Very heavy duty hinges! OURS won't fall
Click on Pictures for a Larger image
1/4" thick flue - will not get damaged by throwing
chimney is low on the firebox and exits about 1 foot from the
bottom, so that the smoke - or more importantly, the gas and heat - is
trapped so that it doesn't quickly escape out the flue. That
would be a big loss of efficiency.
This way the air has to cool off to find its way down and out the chimney. This is also a better idea since you don't have hard-to-clean baffles getting a
creosote buildup on them.
the chimney come down low
the heat, gases and smoke from rushing right out the
AND creates a HUGE Secondary burn chamber
burn off all the gases from the wood - a HUGE source of energy!
When wood starts to burn it's the gas that burns first!
advantage is that the chimney exits through the air chamber, further
heating it up - for free!
Nothing does better!
are some of the reasons that our water furnace is over 75% efficient using the exact same design!
also means that you will burn less wood than with others who don't qualify for
the rebate and therefore you will use more wood with the other - being less than
75% efficient. That's proof, not just rhetoric.
Over 50% thicker!
Thick Steel Firebox (3/8") - WILL NOT burn through - EVER! Will not crack or split like
We have never had a
firebox failure, crack, split, rust-through or leak in 39 years of making the
3/8" thick firebox. After all, it is 50% thicker (or more) than most of the
Compare Firebox thickness
to another popular furnace at only .125" and another at .1875" thick.
We have an ash
pan! Some other makes
don't even have an ash pan!! That makes it HARD to clean out! You
have to let the fire die down or move the burning wood aside
to scoop out hot ashes. OUCH!
Only one factory seam in
tube so it doesn't
weaken the structure, break or warp. It is made of a
solid piece of tubular steel (drill casing)! It is X-rayed before it is shipped.
It WILL NOT RUST through in a lifetime! Will not
get stress cracks
We have furnaces 30 years old and
more, still in use today!
removable grate is made out of
bar stock. Now THAT's thick!
others are 3/8 - 1/2")
Click on Picture
for a larger image
The blower in the back is a great aid
a fire started. It also recovers
the air temperature much quicker,
burns the wood up more completely
because oxygen is being fed to
bottom of the flame -
feeds his fire!
|A clean-burning fire is
more efficient than a smoky air-restricted fire. The forced
draft will burn hotter and therefore cleaner. Secondary
gases burn at 1200 degrees and with our furnace, they are trapped in the firebox so
that they are available to be burnt off without escaping out
the chimney. The Shaver will exceed that temperature.
< View through ash pan door and you can see the air blower inlet (seen in back of this picture).
The air blower determines how hot the fire
burns and therefore how hot the air in the furnace gets. A thermostat on the
back of the furnace tells the blower when to turn on and off (and has a solenoid
activated door), so it doesn't run all the time and waste wood.
This is a LOT more efficient than a manual
damper will ever be!
The air blows into the bottom of the fire,
through the grate - like a blacksmith's forge. That's better than blowing in from the front - into the side of
the fire, as all others do (if they even have a fan).
You get more complete
burning from a fire where the oxygen is fed through the bottom
as opposed to blowing over the fire from the side, like others
that have that big box on the door!
Actual photo of a fire inside our firebox,
only minutes after reloading with wood!
Firebox size is 36" wide x 28"
high (due to ash pan in bottom).
The air chamber totally surrounds the
firebox, top, bottom, sides, front and back.
The chimney is also surrounded
The ash receptacle (and hot coals)
with air too!
Full-size forced air fan for home and smaller forced air draft fan for furnace, with solenoid activated
The fans and thermostat
have a one-year
1500 CFM blower on left
2000 CFM blower on the
2000 CFM fan also available on the TW1000 for $65
You get a solenoid activated
are available everywhere.
There are NO proprietary parts
In case of a power failure,
you can still have a nice warn house, when everyone else is cold!!
In case of a power failure only; Requires a 2000 Watt Generator for the ThermoWind 1000
and a standard portable 4000 watt generator for the 2000 model,
(because of the startup power that the motors takes),
with plenty of power left over for lights, etc.
You MAY need an heating and air guy to hook up the duct work, but all
you really need is an adapter from a round 12" pipe to your rectangle
Everything is very simple and easy to do. There is a comprehensive manual,
with lots of pictures and diagrams, that will help you every step of the
way. You can also call me or the factory for assistance.
||NOW there is no need to put the furnace right next to
Eliminate the threat of fire by having the furnace
away from the house just like with our outdoor wood fired WATER furnace.
We are the only manufacturer that is doing this!
Perfect for folks who have power failures often or
those people with cabins or homes that are unattended.
The two connectors in the back hook up to the
blue pipes which are buried in the ground.
These pipes are only 12" in diameter so a
backhoe with a 24" bucket can easily dig a trench
for the pipes to lay side-by-side.
Ideal for new construction, as you can
but you would just need two pipes running to the house
in an existing structure to connect to your ductwork.
ash "pan" area is approx. 16" wide x 32" long and
is 8" deep. It is a non-removable ash pan because it is
easily cleaned at the front, through the
with a small
shovel or hoe.
other makers don't even have an ash pan! You have to let the
fire die out or shove the hot burning logs aside - then clean it
out while the firebox is 700 plus degrees - and then restart the fire in the dead of
winter! Who wants to do that?
Air surrounds the front and back of the firebox and the ash pan as well, extracting all the
the red hot coals.
There is an air handler/blower
that feeds air into the firebox, below the grate, to feed oxygen
to the fire. It is thermostatically controlled and solenoid activated for
greater efficiency, to keep the air temperature in
the furnace between certain parameters.
This is far better than an
inefficient manual draft opening.
furnace is so strong and well-made,
chimney alone is strong enough
to carry even the 2000 lb. weight of
our biggest forced-air furnace!
We move them like
this every day!
made of Heavy Duty Siding - 29 gauge structural quality, full-hard
steel. 10 layers of protective coating. It has a
Lifetime film integrity Warranty for
walls and roof and a 30-year
warranty against fade and chalk. 10 year edge rust warranty
against acid rain.
suit your surroundings! Mix and match the roof, sides and corners.
There are legs on the bottom with the siding surrounding the bottom to
Concrete pad is recommended but not necessary.
Use railroad ties, solid concrete blocks or ??
The chimney is made out of
1/4" thick, solid steel pipe and is surrounded by air. It now comes with a
chimney cap and tops out at about
90" feet above ground. You can EASILY add standard 6" stove pipe extension(s)
with our adapter.
Super easy access!!
have the whole hull removed
by 2-3 people!!
Large rear access hinged door. All electrical items are in back, safely behind
pipe (air) and electrical hookups (simple 110V wiring).
No special tools needed.
easiest furnace for the self-installer to put in!
help you every step of the way!
Many people can pay for their furnace in
2 tears or less of propane bills!
Start with a small piece of wood.
can use these bigger, cheaper pieces or smaller ones - whatever
you can easily handle. The bigger
ones (rounds) require less cutting and splitting so they cost less -
about 80-90 a cord in most areas.
ANY wood is
cheaper than oil, gas and electricity! One person said that they
have never used their propane heater after propane prices
Whole rounds burn longer and
it's SO NICE not having to split the wood!!
Shove the logs in on top of each other.
Use the poker
(provided) for safety to push them in.
That big poker
comes with the furnace - for FREE!
Thought there wasn't a fire?
Within a couple of minutes -
this fire was roaring!
use state-of-the-art Solar
Guard insulation all around!
Solar Guard is only 1/4" thick but combines a thermal
break, reflective insulation and an insulating layer of R11.6!
It has backing on both sides and is aluminum foil backed on one
side. We then insulate on top of that with R11 vinyl-backed fiberglass in the
walls and ceiling!
INSULATED (R50) ON TOP - like a passive Solar house. You cannot feel the heat when you touch
gives you R22.6 in the walls and now R50 in the ceiling!
Northern U.S. states and in Canada and Alaska.
We will build YOUR furnace in any of 20 exciting
or any combination thereof!
LOTS of Different colors and ALL come with motion lights! Water furnaces shown
here to show assortment of colors.
Ocean Blue with White; White and Red; Ivory with Brown; Green with Black; White
with Black; Ivory with Green
This green is supposed to
look like the picture 2 above
CLICK ON PICTURES for a LARGER IMAGE
Not all colors are available
at all times.
We can also build your furnace
so that you can apply regular siding, brick,
faux (cultured) stone or almost anything else.
We can also build them without
siding for a savings of $300,
for those who want to put them in an outbuilding .
about stainless steel answered
Do you build with stainless steel?
No, we don't build
stainless for several really good reasons.
Our furnaces last longer than stainless with MANY of our water furnaces still
in use after 30 years plus!!
1. Mild steel transfers heat better than stainless does.
2. Stainless is a great sales feature, but little else, since
most companies use cheap stainless, like a car's exhaust system.
There are many grades of stainless out there.
3. Since stainless is so expensive, the fireboxes are made
really thin. Some are no thicker than the metal in a 55 gallon
barrel or the thickness of a trailer fender!! That's why you see
so many split and broken apart.
Our firebox is almost 4/10th of an inch thick, as opposed to .200 in
many furnaces. They never rust through.
We just replaced a Hardy a week or so ago and there are many
leaking Central Boilers and Hardys on eBay for sale, that are
4. Stainless is more prone to stress cracks, so why use it?
5. Unless the stainless is retreated after welding, you've lost
all of it's properties through the heating of the metal. And
it's being welded to mild steel anyway, so what's the use?
Like I said, it's a great sales feature but our super thick mild
steel furnace heats better, doesn't crack and split - and last
If stainless was better, we'd surely be using it after 39 years