If you want to find TRUE answers to your questions about Outdoor Wood Furnaces, you've come to the right place.

We won't tell you that your wood will burn
for 92 hours or that you can put your
furnace 500 feet away!





Home Page for Shaver Outdoor Wood Furnace

Benefits of an outdoor wood furnace boiler

Realistic FAQ of Outdoor Wood Furnaces

Pictures of Outdoor Wood Furnaces



Installation of the Shaver Outdoor Wood Furnace

Purchase a Shaver Outdoor Wood Furnace

How we ship the wood furnaces and pricing

Contact Shaver Outdoor Wood Furnace







The realistic Shaver Outdoor Furnace FAQ
for WATER FURNACES only

 

FAQ for Forced-Air Furnaces Here

 

What is the Shaver outdoor wood furnace?

What kind of heating systems can the Shaver Furnace interface with?

How can the Shaver heat my home and domestic hot water?

What are the advantages of the Shaver Outdoor Wood Furnace?

Why are your prices so low?

Can the installation be completed by the homeowner or does a professional need to be used?

Is the Earth Wood Furnace a subsidiary of yours? They look just like you in every way.

What do the experts say?

What is the BTU rating of your furnace?

What comes with the furnace?

What else will I need to buy?

Do you sell everything I need and can I get them ahead of time?

Do you sell insulated water lines that run to the house?

Can I install the furnace in the middle of winter,
so I can start saving money right away?

Can I get more than the two standard sets of ports in addition to
the hot water heater ports?

What is this new rust treatment that you have, that lasts for 5 years?

Is burning wood bad for the environment?

How long will the furnace last?

What about Stainless Steel Wood Furnaces?

How long is the warranty?

What can I expect to pay for an outdoor wood furnace?

How much do I need to pay NOW, to start my  custom furnace?

What kind of payments do you accept?

Why is the water jacket so big? 170 gallons is a lot more than others!

How heavy is your furnace?

Won't the firebox burn out eventually?

Why don't you use boiler plate?

Antifreeze as a Rust Inhibitor?

Is this furnace (boiler) pressurized or non-pressurized?

Is there a safety latch or anti-blowback latch?

Is there a lot of heat loss when the unit is outside and it's below 32° F?

Can I connect the Shaver to a forced air heating system?

What would need to be done to interface a Trane I-19 heat pump?

Will my existing furnace take over as a backup?

How do I keep my furnace going in the event of a power failure?

I only have baseboard electric heat, how can I use the Shaver?

I don't have a heating system now. What do I do?

Can I heat my domestic water with the Shaver?

Can I connect the Shaver to a pressurized heating system or boiler?

Should I consider radiant heat?

Can the Shaver heat my pool and/or spa?

Can I heat more than one building?

Can the Shaver Furnace melt snow and ice on my walkway, sidewalk and driveway; keeping it clear?

I have two heat pumps or furnaces. Would I need a pump for both?

Can I use an outdoor wood furnace if I live in town?

How often do I have to fill it up?

Does the furnace come fully assembled?

Can I extend the chimney of flue pipe?

Can boilers explode?

Does your furnace burn continuously or does it shut off and on
according to if the furnace is operating or some other method?

Does your pump run continuously?

Do these furnaces need to be near the house? 

How far away can the furnace be from the heated building?

Is there an elevation concern for the placement of the furnace? 

Do you offer financing?

Do I have a choice of colors?

Can I get the furnace without siding for use in an outbuilding?

Could make a Shaver Pro Series 250 without metal siding. I want
to install brick
.

Who is Shaver Furnace?

What is the recommended temperature to set the Shaver Furnace to?

What happens if the water inside the furnace freezes?  Would it damage the pipes and the boiler?

Just had another owner of a Shaver boiler tell me that I needed to be draining my boiler every year.  Is that the fact?

WHY OUR FURNACE IS THE ABSOLUTE BEST!

 



According to the UL (Underwriters Laboratories) our furnace needs to be 5 feet away from flammables. The ThermoWind units cannot generally be more than 15 feet from your home because the temperature losses and airflow losses but in no case can be more than 30 feet away from your existing ductwork.

Water models can be up to 300 feet away.


Shaver Outdoor Wood Burning Furnace is one of the leading and the oldest manufacturers of outdoor wood furnaces in Canada and the United States. We have been building quality wood burning  furnaces since 1972 - 41 years!

We are a family run business (privately held - no big corporations), located in North Arkansas (10 miles from MO) and know all about cold temperatures. We sell many furnaces in Canada, Alaska and Europe. 

One of the reasons our prices are so low is because we are filling a need; for everyone to have an outdoor furnace, that wants one. 

 - Our labor rates are low, here in Arkansas and we pass those savings on to you!

 - Our advertising is only $300 a month - unlike others who spend tens of thousands of dollars on one full-page color ad. You pay for that!

 - We use all off-the-shelf parts. That means that they cost less money. We don't use expensive circuit boards or computerized parts. That means less expense for you (and simpler too).

 - No one is looking to get rich off of these furnaces. In fact some other manufactures put there furnaces on sale, lowering their prices by MORE than we even make on a furnace!

We have a simpler, nicer looking furnace that's made to stand the test of time. We use our own tried and true SIMPLE 40 year old design. This is the same furnace we were building in 1985 without changing our prices by using cheaper materials or giving sloppy craftsmanship.

We HAVE made improvements to the furnaces over time - and STILL have the lowest prices!

 We believe we have the best outdoor wood furnace - and certainly the best price by far. 

Simply look at the shear weight of out furnaces and you will discover that we use the most metal and have the thickest firebox of all.

We heat our manufacturing facility with a Shaver 340 Model. We also heat our own 5,000 sq ft home, hot water and hot tub with a Shaver Outdoor Wood Furnace.

 

What is the Shaver Outdoor Wood Fired Furnace?
It is a safe and efficient way to heat your home with wood. The Shaver furnace is designed to look like an attractive storage building and is installed outside, away from the home or building being heated. 

Having an outdoor furnace eliminates smoke,  pollution and wood debris within the house. A water jacket surrounds the huge furnace firebox and the heat is transferred from the wood fire to the water. The water is then piped at 130 F to 180 F (adjustable), to the house. It then goes through a heat exchanger, which is a lot like a radiator. Air blows over the heat exchanger (in your furnace's plenum or ductwork), extracting heat for your home.

Heating systems other than forced air (such as boilers or radiant floor heating systems) can be hooked up very simply. In fact a boiler is the easiest system to hook up! They use an even smaller heat exchanger, that instantly transfers the heat flowing from the outside boiler to your indoor system, with only a 2 to 3° temperature difference. This heat exchanger is normally just 5 x 12" and can mount virtually anywhere.

with this heat exchanger, the water never mixes with each other and your indoor system can stay pressurized, while the outside system is non-pressurized (safer).

 

What kind of heating systems can the Shaver Furnace interface with?

Our systems will work great with virtually any system; Hydronic or radiant floor heat, forced air systems (oil, LP, Natural Gas), gas packs, heat pumps, boilers, water radiators, etc.

The only system they will not work with, is a steam type system but many of those systems can be converted to water.

We can even help you if you don't have any heating system now!

You can use baseboard Hydronic heaters, old-style cast iron radiators, radiant floor heat (with Pex pipe "stapled" to your floor underneath or easy to install flexible ductwork.

We even have a new
ThermoWind furnace, which does not have any water at all and is simply hooked up to your existing ductwork, if you have it or you could run two ducts from the outdoor furnace to your building; he supply and return. You can always add extra or duct runs later run to the different rooms, if needed.

 

How can the Shaver Wood Furnace heat my home and water?
The heated water is pumped to the home or building through insulated underground pipes (Pex pipe). A water-to-air heat exchanger or water-to-water heat exchanger, conveys the heat into the home's forced-air furnace, boiler, or radiant floor heating system. 

Think of how low your car our truck works; dear Jen supplies hot water to the heat exchanger (heater core) and you simply turn on the fan to get heat - lots of it!

This works the same way except that the heat is supplied by the Shaver Furnace. Your furnace fan in your home blows air over the heat exchanger ( assuming that you have a forced air furnace) and again, you get heat and lots of it!

It will also supply potable hot water to the water heater to provide domestic hot water. Every Shaver Water Furnace comes with a built-in heat exchanger at NO CHARGE. This eliminates the need for you to purchase an external hot water heat exchanger for your hot water heater. You would also have to buy a tempering valve, so you don't end up with scalding water. This will save you $250 - $300! 

We use a direct hookup to the hot water heater.  This allows for normal thermostatic control of temperatures for safe, even, comfortable heat. You won't end up with scalding water with our built-in heat exchanger for your domestic hot water.

Our unique system can replenish the hot water in your hot water tank, in as little as 4 min. - faster than virtually any hot water heater!

 

What are the advantages of the Shaver outdoor wood boiler?
  • All of out parts are off-the-shelf parts.
  • You can heat your domestic hot water with our included built-in heat exchanger.
  • You can heat more than one building or home. This
  • You can heat your pool or spa land also a driveway or walkway; clearing it of snow and ice.
  • There are NO circuit board or computerized parts to fizzle with the first power surge!
  • The chance of carbon monoxide build-up in your home is eliminated.
  • Smoke in your home is eliminated.
  • The chance of a gas explosion from your furnace in your home is eliminated.
  •  Indoor pollutants of harmful gases and fumes are eliminated.
  • Asthma and other breathing difficulties are greatly helped by eliminating the dry air, fumes and gases.
  •  Eliminates the chance of chimney and flue fires from your furnace.
  • Lower insurance rates are usually possible!
  • Get the furnace beside your wood supply or wood pile, so you don't have to carry it inside!
  •  

    The Shaver furnace removes the fire hazard from your home or building because all of the burning and stoking takes place outside. Insurance companies love these furnaces. Often lower rates or higher coverage can be had by changing from a fireplace or indoor wood stove to an outside wood furnace.

    An outdoor wood furnace also helps your indoor air quality and can alleviate respiratory and allergy problems caused by burning wood indoors . No more dark sooty walls and bugs either! Thermostatic control provides your home with even, steady heat.

    The house will be less drafty as well, when heating with the outside boiler, because there is no combustion device operating inside drawing in cold outside air to replace that used in combustion.

    Current owners of the Shaver Furnace are also using up to 25 to 50 percent less wood compared to other heating alternatives. Since the Shaver can burn larger pieces of wood it will dramatically reduce time spent preparing the wood. Costs for large round timbers are also dramatically less than for smaller split wood. You can get this type of wood for $90 a cord compared to $120-140 a cord or more.

    The Shaver Wood Furnace means easy maintenance and few parts requiring service. You don't need costly electrical gadgets and features to cause problems down the road. This is a proven design of over 39 years! 

    KEEP IT SIMPLE and efficient, is our motto. No circuit boards, fancy controls and electronic or remote wireless controls here!

     

     

    Can the installation be completed by the homeowner or does professional need to be used?
    Most of our customers (80-90%) install the furnace themselves.

    The electrical hookup is simple 110V wiring. If you can hook up a light switch and a light socket, you have the knowledge and ability to do this install.. Plumbing hookup is accomplished with easy push-on-by-hand fittings; no tools needed!

    You can lay the lines yourself and pour the concrete pad, if you're going to use one

    The hardest job is putting the heat exchanger into the duct work. That takes a little skill, to make the new ductwork to house the exchanger. Sometimes it's a slide-in affair!

    A local heating and air guy can easily handle it all.

    The heat exchanger (late exchanger or water to water heat exchanger) for an inside boiler is the simplest to do; requiring the connection of four pipes. That is all.

    Everything is very simple and easy to do. There is a 59 page manual (most of that is pictures and diagrams, that will help you every step of the way. You can also call me or the factory for assistance but the fact of the matter is, we rarely even get a phone call with questions about installing the furnace!

     

    Is the Earth Furnace a subsidiary of yours? They look just like you in every way. What about Nature's Comfort?

    There are many similarities with the Earth Wood Furnace but NO.

    "Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery."

    We have been here for 41 years. We will be there when you need them. We will and we have proven that. 

    Companies that have lasted 41 years are far and few between and we are one of them. Don't you want that security?

    Earth Stove and Nature's Comfort (another imitator) have only been in business for years; since late 2008.

    We have seen many companies come and go in just the last five or six years; folding up and going out of business, leaving the customer without any warranty at all.

     

    What do the experts say?
    According to the University of Nebraska, "Wood burning stoves may not only save people money on their heating bills this winter, but also are a clean alternative to electric or gas furnaces," Adams said.

    Scott Josiah, state forester with the Nebraska Forest Service at UNL, said "There also are environmental benefits to using wood heat. Wood heat produces little pollution and is environmentally friendly, especially when wood is used in a high-efficiency wood burning stove and where firewood is a readily available resource."

     

    What is the BTU rating of your furnace?
    First of all, we rate our furnace differently than most manufacturers. 

    We do it in a way that is much easier for the consumer to figure out.

    It is usually best to look at the square footage rating. We rate our 165 at 4,000 square feet. This is for average winter conditions, like in PA and Ohio, in a well-insulated home

    Customers in Wisconsin, Michigan, Minnesota and upstate NY and the extreme NE, should consider the 165 as a 3500 sq foot model.

    Folks in TN, NC, Arkansas, etc, can easily heat 5,000 sq. feet with the same furnace.

    BE AWARE that many manufacturers will take a furnace similar in size to our 165 model and will tell you that it will heat 7 or 8 thousand feet. What they DON'T tell you, is that you will have to load it more than twice a day. I've heard from quite a few customers that were sold too small a furnace (just so the company could make a sale) and then they ended up loading it every 6-8 hours. This is not fair to you!

    Please keep in mind that this is for a house with average to well-insulated. If you have an older or drafty house, you will have to adjust the size to get a firebox that is bigger, to hold more wood (burns longer), for less loading.

    Your wood source makes a big difference too. While hedge or orange wood HAS 32 Million BTUs per cord, Hickory has almost 28 Million, Red Oak and Maple has 24 Million BTUs while Ash and others are in the high teens - so you can see a big difference in the wood you use and load times! You can almost cut your load times in half using hedge. Most any hardwood has more BTUs than all species of softwoods. See out BTU list for wood 

    The Shaver 165 is rated at 163,200 BTU storage capacity. The actual output can be greater, for a short period of time - which is the rating OTHER manufacturers give you.

    Don't believe the outlandish claims of 300,000 BTU from a 100 or 120 gallon furnace! They simply aren't true. I just read about one that said it was 400,000 BTU with a 95 gallon tank. Preposterous!  Where did these people go to school?

    The water would have to be well over 500 degrees to do this. And at what temperature does water boil? 212º F of course. And we don't want the water boiling! This is just a cheap sales tactic.

    A BTU is the amount of heat needed to raise the temperature of 1 pound of water by 1 degree Fahrenheit.

    That means that if the normal water temperature is 60 degrees F and it needs to be raised to 180 degrees, that it will take 163,200 BTU to do this. Remember that a pound of water is about 16 ounces. A gallon of water is approx 8 lb.

    (170 gal. x 8) = 1360 lb.

    Temperature change = 120 degrees

    1360 x 120 = approx. 163,200 BTU


    Find out how many BTUs you need HERE or check the label on your current furnace or boiler.


     

    What comes with the furnace?
    The Shaver Pro Series Water furnaces  include the pump (which most other manufacturers don't give you), a second set of ports and the built-in heat exchanger for the domestic hot water. these are not options, as with other companies.

    Not including a pump is like selling a car without a steering wheel; you need it!!

    We're also including the Cold Weather Package NOW at NO CHARGE for furnaces sold in states that border Canada, sold In Canada and Sold in Alaska!

    We are also now including a chimney cap standard and a solenoid activated (simple) automatic damper, on the forced air induction fan, in the back of our furnace.

    We have heard from many customers that this Burns a lot less wood. We have offered this as an option for several years, after our customers started putting these on their own furnaces (homemade). They asked us to start offering this as an option and because of all of the fabulous reviews, we have now made it standard. We are also including a fan that is 50% bigger; 75 CFM versus 50 CFM. All of this is at no additional charge and will save you even more wood now!

     

    What else will I need to buy?
    Our parts supplier, who we work closely with, sells anything and everything needed. We normally ship them to your door ahead of the furnace. If you get everything ready, you can have the furnace installed and heating  in an hour or two, once it arrives!

    Please call Ted at Abbott Boiler Parts for your parts needs. He has anything and everything that you would need. Ted's phone number is 828-687-4074.

    Here is a list of the parts you need normally will need.

    1. Installation kit (includes 2 shut-off valves, a drain and 2 SharkBite fittings) at $44.59 ea.

    2. Hot water kit (includes a thermostat, pump flange and fittings to attach everything; top and bottom) $89.99 (BRASS)

    3. Heat exchanger   U.S. made: $175 and up (Lifetime Warranty)
       
    A boiler or radiant system normally requires a water to water or plate heat exchanger (two different names for the same thing).

    4. Hydrocoil kit (SharkBite fittings for the heat exchanger) $26.21 pr. (elbows)  $18.18 pr.  (straight)

    5. Pump for the H/W heater  $90 (3 -speed & 3-yr. warranty)

    6. Pre-made insulated Pex pipe for $7.95/ft. for a 4" pipe with two 1" Pex pipes and two 3/4" Pex pipes - U.S. made. Our parts supplier offers a 17% discount to Shaver furnace customers, making the price of the Pex pipe only $6.67/ft.

    3L Insulated Pex 2 X 1" & 1 X 3/4"  Reg. $6.95/ft. Our parts supplier offers a 10% discount to Shaver furnace customers, making the price of the Pex pipe only $5.97/ft a foot.

    2L Insulated Pex 2 X 1" lines reg. $5.95/ft. Disc at $4.97/ft.

    (If you only need two Pex pipes, for a garage, for example, you can use our pre-made insulated Pex pipe for $5.95 a foot (for a 4" pipe with two 1" Pex pipes - U.S. made.) Remember you still need a fill line or a way to top off the furnace, if it isn't being hooked up to a hot water heater.

    Our parts supplier offers a 17% discount to Shaver furnace customers, making the price of the Pex pipe only $5.35 a foot.

     These prices are plus shipping.

    Note: The Pex pipe fittings we use are simple, push-on-by-hand Pex fittings

     

    In addition to these parts, you will need to buy these parts locally:

    12/3 wire

    cement for the pad or solid concrete pavers/blocks

    inexpensive 2-wire thermostat ($15)

    Assuming that the furnace is going to be 50 feet from your home, you are looking at approx $443 for the parts 1-5 plus the Pex Pipe ($358 + shipping), if you want pre-made, pre-insulated pipe that you simply drop in the ground and cover up..

    Also see the installation page.


    Do you sell insulated water lines that run to the house?
    YES, our insulated pipe is US made - there is NO CHINESE JUNK, unless you want it. It is wrapped four times with insulation, as opposed to others that are wrapped two or three times. The Pex pipe is of the highest quality, made in the US! See the installation page.

     

    Can I install the furnace in the middle of winter, so I can start saving money right away?
    You can install the furnace with pre-made, pre-insulated pipe that you can lay right on the ground, without burying it until spring, when the ground thaws! It is so well insulated, that according to our customers, the snow doesn't even melt on it!

     

    Do I need a cement pad?
    No, but a cement pad is recommended and is always best. It will stop moisture from permeating out of the ground. If properly sized, it will give you a stable place to set the furnace. It will give you ample room to stand out of the mud and/or snow.

    Some of our customers use solid concrete blocks (pavers) and railroad ties. It is recommended that you thick plastic down before using concrete blocks/pavers or railroad ties.

     

    Is wood burning bad for the environment?
    A wood heating system is the right choice for the increasing number of consumers who are concerned about our environment. Wood is a totally renewable resource, which, when burned, results in no net carbon dioxide increase. Carbon dioxide is a part of the natural plant-growth cycle and occurs naturally when trees are allowed to rot on the forest floor. 

    Burning wood gives of no more carbon than a rotting tree laying on the forest floor!

    On the other hand, fossil fuels release carbon dioxide when burned, which otherwise would stay trapped in the earth. This causes a net increase in carbon dioxide, which is believed to be responsible for the heat-trapping "greenhouse effect."

    When heating with wood versus fossil fuels, you actually achieve a net reduction in greenhouse gas emissions. 

    In addition, harvesting firewood has a pruning effect on forests, which allows net growth to flourish. The wood you burn likely comes from your local area -- it's not imported and not subject to price increases due to events outside your control, as is the case with oil.

    Many times the owners have land with fallen trees spread throughout abundantly - which means FREE WOOD!

     

    How long will the furnace last?
    We have a 20-YEAR WARRANTY with an exclusive ON-SITE parts AND labor warranty on the furnace, 100 FREE for 5-years and the generously pro-rated. Electrical components are guaranteed for one or two years, depending on the manufacturer.

    The life of your furnace depends upon proper maintenance. With proper maintenance your furnace will give you many years of dependable service.

    We have Shaver Furnaces in service that are well over 25 years old, barw or with wood siding - the way we used to make them!

     

    What about Stainless Steel Wood Furnaces?
    Stainless steel may not last longer than mild steel in an outdoor furnace, because all stainless is NOT a “forever” product. There are many grades and some of them are subject to rusting and corrosion. Automobile exhaust systems are made from one of the lower grades; they resist high temperatures but totally corrode. 

    Stainless is expensive so the stainless steel fireboxes are made very thin; typically only 1/16" thin. Our standard firebox is OVER SIX TIMES THICKER! Stainless gets stress cracks in it which get bigger and bigger until you have a BIG leak!

    STAINLESS STEEL OUTSIDE BOILER CRACKS


    STAINLESS STEEL OUTDOOR FURNACE CRACKS

    We have replaced leaking  stainless steel furnaces only 5 and 6 years old!

    Most outdoor furnace manufacturers went to stainless steel to get in on the stainless quality "image", but since it’s expensive many of them went to a low-cost, cheap-grade stainless - which is still subject to rust and corrosion! During the manufacturing and welding process for stainless steel, IF the proper quantity and blend of corrosion-resistant and stabilizing elements are used, then it does indeed become a “forever” product. This is not normally done and post-weld annealing is needed to restore ductility, formability, toughness and corrosion resistance.

    If you do purchase one of the lower grade stainless steel furnaces, be sure that exact model has a proven track record of corrosion resistance. The furnace design is every bit as important as the material that it’s made from.

    Our original 30 year-old furnaces are still in operation today - thanks in part to a standard 4/10th inch firebox.

     

     

    How long is the warranty?
    We  have a 20-YEAR limited warranty ON-SITE including parts and labor on the entire structure. There is also a 100%, 5 year conditional ON-SITE warranty . The electrical parts such as the pump, thermostat and fan have a one year manufacturer's warranty.

    We don't have you ship the furnace back, like some companies. What good is a warranty if it's going to cost you a thousand dollars for shipping?

    We also don't send you a roll of 26 gauge metal, like one owner told me, along with a list of local welders! Can you believe that's how some people (dis)honor their warranty?

    We send a man out, to your furnace and it's repaired on the spot in the rare case that a leak should ever develop!

     

    What can I expect to pay for an outdoor wood furnace?
    Total prices will vary depending on the shipping location but our prices start at a low, low $4147 for the forced air furnace and $5177 for the water furnace..

    We also offer financing

     

    How much do I need to pay NOW, to start my custom furnace?
    The minimum deposit is $1947 on the 165 model and TW1000. All other models require a $2447 deposit.

    You can pay with credit card (we take them all), debit card, cash, check by mail, check by phone and PayPal.

    The balance is due when the furnace is due to be loaded on the truck - before delivery. Certified funds only (NO CASH) if you are paying our driver. We do not want the drivers carrying cash for safety reasons.

    If shipping by freight, the balance must be paid before the furnace is picked up by the freight company.

     

    Why is the water jacket so big? 170 gallons is a lot more than others!  But then there are bigger ones too - what's up?
    Many stoves do not have enough water capacity and tend to cycle too often and run out of stored heat. You load the stove with wood and fire it. With a small water capacity, the water reaches set point temperature and the stove shuts down. You still have a good load of wood in the firebox that sits there and smolders and then cycles over and over.

    The Hardy just has 100 gallons in their base model and 130 in the next model up! Some others only have a dismal 60-70 gallons!

    On cold days the heat is quickly drained from the water an now you have cold water trying to heat your house - until it warms up again.

    More water also means more capacity (available BTUs) but at the same time the water doesn't have to be heated as much, over and over again, either.

    The Shaver Outdoor Furnace has a large water tank capacity, so you can burn the total load of wood with good draft, burn and efficiency. 



    How heavy is your furnace?
    Our furnaces weigh in at a hefty 1641 lb - 2365 dry, uncrated, which is a testimony as to how much steel is really in the furnace. Our 1/2" model is 1920 - 2940 lb. The Hardy H2 furnace only weighs 650 lb. The Hardy H4 is only 850. Hmmm...

    See our pictures of the furnace hanging from the chimney alone.

    Won't the firebox burn out eventually?
    The Shaver Outdoor Furnaces are made with heavy gauge steel and will never rust out, to be sure. Can you imagine a piece of metal about 4/10" thick (that's over 3/8") ever rusting though? Many boilers out there are only 1/5" thick and their stainless steel counterparts are only 1/16 inch thick!  There are many Shaver  Furnaces over 30 years old in service, still going strong.

    Our optional firebox is HALF OF AN INCH THICK!

    What about stress cracks? Since water surrounds the firebox, the metal can only get so hot since it's being continually cooled by the water. The extreme thickness of the metal we use (almost 4/10 inch or optional 1/2") helps avoid stress cracks as well.

    those supers then fireboxes that other manufacturers have, often crack and the cracks end up going all the way through and the next thing you know water is leaking into the firebox!

     

    Why don't you use boiler plate?
    Our 3/8" and 1/2" fireboxes have more tensile strength than the others with their "boiler plate" fireboxes that are only 1/4" and thinner!

    In other words, our fireboxes are stronger than boiler plate!

    We have the thickest firebox in the world! Boiler Plate has a higher tensile strength than mild or regular steel and so it is less prone to rupturing. That is needed in a pressurized unit, like actual boilers and old steam engines.

    The industry has thrown the name around (boiler plate) as if it was needed when it is absolutely not needed. It is of no use in a non-pressurized unit. 
     

    http://www.nextlevelsolutionz.com/Why-Use-Boiler-Plate-Outdoor-furnace.htm

     

    Antifreeze as a Rust Inhibitor?

    Unscrupulous dealers will tell you that the sole purpose of antifreeze is to keep the furnace from freezing up. Not true; the main reason is rust prevention. Rust is the no/no word in the outdoor furnace business.

    Antifreeze is generally not needed as it takes a long time to freeze 170 gallons of water and there is plenty of expansion room in the top of the tank anyway.

    There are several other alternatives to prevent freezing and cost far less cost. An in-line electric heater can be installed on the return line and set at just above the freezing mark as an extra safeguard.

    Even better, you can also simply leave the pump running if you go on vacation and it will extract heat from the furnace keeping the water warm. The pump uses about the same power as a 80W light bulb.

    Antifreeze is an excellent rust inhibitor but it does have a disadvantage. It is designed to keep engines cooler. When used in an outdoor furnace, it has been stated that it takes 18 percent more firewood to heat the system water/antifreeze mixture than to just heat water. 

    Do not use regular automobile antifreeze. The best glycol additive is Dowfrost from the Dow Chemical company. It is environmentally friendly, allows higher operating temperatures, has excellent anti-corrosion features and has a longer life expectancy than other glycols.

    We have also heard that Beet Juice is an excellent and inexpensive antifreeze! Beet Juice has a neutral Ph just like water.

    See our new Outdoor Furnace Water Treatment! It eliminates annual water testing, water treatments and keeping the Ph balanced through the season!

     

    Is this furnace (boiler) pressurized or non-pressurized?
    The Shaver Outdoor Furnaces are safer, non-pressurized units. Technically they are atmospheric vented, which means they are totally safe and never build pressure.

     

    Is there a safety latch or anti-blowback latch?
    Door Anti Blowback Catch -- This unique feature on all Shaver outdoor wood furnaces assures you that we are thinking about safety first. The cam style catch releases the door gradually, allowing for the gases to escape safely preventing possible blow back and serious injury.

     

    Is there a lot of heat loss when the unit is outside and it's below 32° F?
    The units are highly insulated to avoid heat loss. In fact the snow doesn't even melt on the outside in the winter. That means that heat is being kept inside.

    With our optional Cold Weather Package (free in Canada) you get R22 in the walls and an amazing R50 in the ceiling!

    I have heated up my furnace in the middle of winter and turned it off. When I checked the temperature the next day, there is very little heat loss.

     

    Can I connect the Shaver to a forced air heating system?
    Yes, more than 90% of all installations are connected to existing forced air heating systems.  

    Any system with ductwork and a fan is considered a forced-air system, including heat pumps, geothermal units, indoor "water" furnaces.

    Of course, our ThermoWind furnaces are specifically designed to hook up directly to your existing ductwork or they can be used without any ductwork at all,

    Our heating system is MUCH hotter than heat pumps and geothermal systems!

    This type (forced air furnace) is easy to install; almost as easy as Hydronic units and free-hanging units in a garage or shop.

    Most of our customers (80-90%) install the furnace themselves.

    The electrical hookup is simple 110V wiring. If you can hook up a light switch and a light socket, you can do this install.. Plumbing hookup is accomplished with easy push-on-by-hand fittings..

    You can lay the lines yourself and pour the concrete pad, if you're going to use one.

    The hardest job is putting the heat exchanger into the duct work. That takes a little skill, to make the new ductwork to house the exchanger. Sometimes it's a slide-in affair!

    A local handyman (or heating and air guy; more expensive) can easily handle it all.

    Everything is very simple and easy to do. There is a 5this9 page manual that will help you every step of the way. You can also call me or the factory for assistance.

     

    Will my existing furnace take over as a backup?
    Lets just imagine that there is a big snow storm and you can't get home to put wood in the fire. Eventually, the fire will die down and a while later the water will cool off to below 110F and you will no longer have any significant heat coming into the house.

    The thermostat for your existing furnace would sense the drop in temperature and automatically turn your furnace on (without relays, switched or circuit boards).

    Once you feed the outdoor furnace and restore the fire, it would again take over again from your existing furnace.

    This works exactly the same with boiler systems.

     

    How do I keep my furnace going in the event of a power failure?

    We sell a battery charger and inverter combo that is easy to install and use!

    Utility Power -When stove sentry is used with a 90 A-HR Marine Battery, its highly efficient circuitry can provide up to 8 hours of operation in the absence of electricity.

    How it Works:

    When electricity is present the Surefire Stove Sentry charges a battery and surveys the power line. At the instant that a power failure occurs, the Surefire Stove Sentry converts the energy stored in the battery to AC power. This assures operation of the wood furnace or pellet stove without interruption during the absence of electricity.




            

    When AC utility power is restored, the Surefire Stove Sentry reinstates AC utility power as the prime energy source to operate the wood furnace or pellet stove. Simultaneously and automatically the Surefire Stove Sentry commences the recharging of the battery, to return it to full capacity in preparation for the next power failure.

    You can also install a small solar panel to charge the battery, instead of using line power and use a less expensive inverter.

    Bear in mind that you may also need a power supply (backup) for your furnace fan! A small generator will do the trick.

    This is how you become self-sufficient with your outdoor wood burning furnace. Have heat when no one else does!

     

    I only have baseboard electric heat, how can I use the Shaver? What about NO heat?
    Many people with electric baseboards (or no heating system at all) elect to install non-drafty, even-heating and comfortable radiant floor heat between the floor joists. Many others choose water or Hydronic baseboard heaters which look almost exactly like electric baseboard heaters.

    They also now have heaters that look just like baseboard molding with hidden heat!

    They also make floor molding that heats your rooms by the hot water running through it and it's virtually invisible.

    Others choose the old-timey radiators like they use to use! The also now manufacturer new radiators. It all depends on your decor. 

    Of course, as mentioned above you can use the ThermoWind furnace in many applications.

     

    Can I heat my domestic water with the Shaver?
    Yes, our system circulates potable hot water in a closed system, between the boiler and the hot water heater. This keeps the hot water refreshed, hot and ready to go at all times. No outside heat exchanger is needed, saving you $300 on a side-arm heat exchanger and tempering (anti-scald) valve. 

    We have a 50 foot copper water coil in the water jacket which works much better than a sidearm exchanger or brazed plate heat exchanger.

    A circulating pump ($90) is mounted on the hot water heater and a thermostat turns it on when the temperature drops 10 degrees in the H/W heater. The cool water is pumped through the built-in heat exchanger (included) and back into the water heater, fully heated.  

    The pump can pump all of the water out of your hot water heater in 4-5 min. and heat it up - faster than most any traditional hot water heater can, giving you a virtually in the supply of hot water.

    Heating your hot water with our built-in hot water coil is very efficient. 

    Your hot water heater will stay off all winter while you enjoy a virtually endless supply of free hot water! This saves you $35 - 65 a month depending on what kind of heat you have an how much hot water you use. If you want us to delete the hot water coil, we will take $100 off the price.

    With our system there is no chance of getting scalding water out of your tap - like with other systems!

    Your hot water heater functions as normal in the summer and will revert back to using your traditional hot water heater, automatically - even a few simply run out of wood temporarily!

     

    Can I connect the Shaver to a pressurized heating system?
    Yes, by the use of a water-to-water heat (or plate) exchanger the heat can be transferred from the water in one system to the other.

    In fact, a boiler is the easiest system to hook up to.

    A water-to-water heat exchanger is all that is needed to tie the two systems together. It keeps the systems separate and allows your boiler to work exactly as it does now - the way it was designed to. If it's pressurized, it will stay that way and any other systems like auto-fill and anti-flowback will work as they do now.

    See the diagram and picture. The heat exchanger is simply plumbed in right before your boiler, in the return line. The return water from your system is reheated, tricking your boiler into thinking there is no heat loss and therefore no reason to come back on. That way you don't need any switches relays are or other devices to control it.

    Connecting it directly to the existing system and depressurizing it is a big no-no and will cause you problems with air pockets, etc.

     

    Should I consider radiant heat?
    YES! While Radiant heat can be more expensive initially, it is probably the most comfortable heat!  There isn't any air blowing around and your floors (even a concrete slab) will be toasty warm!

    Installed under new or existing floors, it can be a great way to heat your home. Radiant floor heat is the most efficient way to transfer heat, however, it is important that you design the system correctly. Many people with electric baseboard heaters opt for this method (or baseboard Hydronic heaters)

    It isn't drafty or noisy and gives you clean and comfortable heat down low, where you are at - where you need it!

    Radiant heat does not travel up to and out of the ceiling!

    See http://www.warmzone.com/radiant_air.asp

    Joisted floor system for radiant heat floor heating systems
    joisted floor system
    Simple, Easy to Install
    Radiant Heating Packages
    for the Do It Yourselfer
    or call TED at 828-687-4074
    Concrete floor system for radiant heating underfloor heat systems
      concrete floor installation

    See how to hook up radiant heat of ALL kinds, to the Shaver Furnace HERE

     

    Can the Shaver heat my pool and/or spa?
    Yes, many Shaver Outdoor Furnace customers heat their pool and/or spa. You can put wood in the furnace every 3 days or more in the summer. I guess this is where many manufacturers get the outlandish claims of 72 - 96 hours burn time.

    We have special kits for hooking up a Shaver with your pool so it will maintain the temperature within 1 degree F! Use must use a titanium heat exchanger in a chlorinated pool.

    Remember that smoke output will be greater in the summer due to the smoldering fire and plan accordingly when placing your furnace.

     

    Can I heat more than one building?
    One of the many advantages of the Shaver Outdoor Furnace is the ability to heat multiple buildings from one location. Simply add a pump to the extra set of ports - THAT COMES STANDARD - and Pex lines to your location and you will have an additional heated area or building.

    You can add additional sets of ports for only $45 a set!

    It is recommended that you use a different pump for each building

     

    Can the Shaver Furnace melt snow and ice on my walkway, sidewalk and driveway; keeping it clear?
    YES! See THIS PAGE!
    I have two heat pumps or furnaces. Would I need a pump for both?
    We have customers with two and even three different furnace systems. Some have a combination of heat pumps and oil/gas furnaces.

    A single pump and set of pipes can be used to feed all of the heat exchangers needed.

    (The furnace can be set at 160F and that water can be used in the first heat exchanger, usually the biggest heat exchanger (normally the one heating the most square footage) is fed first, with 160F water. The output from that heat exchanger (usually 140F or hotter) is fed to the second heat exchanger and the return then goes back to the outdoor furnace.

    If a third furnace/heat pump is used the output from the second heat exchanger is used. The water temperature should be set at 180F at the most.

    Heat exchangers are tested and rated at 140F. so the lower temperatures at the last heat exchanger are fine, especially when you consider that a heat pump will only put out 110° air at the most!

    The only difference between the three systems or heat exchangers, is that the fan will have to run longer because of the lower temperatures (and therefore lower BTU output) available.

    Of course, separate pumps and lines can be used so that the hottest water is fed into each heat exchanger and the pumps can be wired to only run on demand.

     

    Can I use an outdoor wood furnace if I live in town?
    Wood furnaces may not be the best fuel choice in densely populated urban areas where neighbors could be annoyed  complain. Smoke can also overwhelm your neighbors if the wind blows the wrong way. Remember, automobile exhaust and other pollution already puts excessive strains on air quality. 

    However, in suburban, small town, and rural areas, wood makes good sense. If you choose to install your Shaver furnace in a densely populated area the stack height should exceed the rooflines of existing homes within 200 feet.

     

    How often do I have to fill it up?
    We put wood in our furnace at 8 AM and 8 PM in the dead of winter, with plenty of wood still left over. So 2 times a day max, if using good dry hardwood and with a well-insulated building. Some people do it just once a day, depending on the outdoor temperature, the size of their home and the type of wood used.

    there are many situation where a person will only load their furnace once a day. I know of a case where a person has a 3000 square foot home, in the mountains of North Carolina, and is using a 250 model.

    That would normally heat 6000 square feet  in a climate like North Carolina, and so it has double the output of what is needed for that 3000 square foot home. Therefore you only have to load it once a day because you can put enough wood in it to burn for 12 hours, (burning a good hardwood like Oak or Maple)

    If you used a hardwood like Locust, Hickory or Hedge, you could increase that by 25%!

    Don't believe exaggerated claims of 72-96 hours!  This just isn't possible - except in the summer, heating only water and a pool, hot tub or spa.

    The size of your house, outdoor temperatures and the size of the house will determine how much wood you use and how often you fill the furnace along with whether you heat hot water.

    See the question about regarding BTU output.

     

    Does the furnace come fully assembled?
    Yes. Like most major appliances the unit is delivered to you ready to install.

     

    Can boilers explode?
    The Shaver Outdoor Furnace is a non-pressurized systems which totally eliminates this possibility.

     

    Does your furnace burn continuously or does it shut off and on according to if the furnace is operating or some other method?
    The forced-air fan in the back of the Shaver furnace controls the water temperature by controlling the fire.

    When the water temperature drops, the fan comes on and feeds air (oxygen) into the fire, resulting in a raging fire. Once the water heats up to the temperature you set it at, the fan goes off, allowing the fire to just smolder, so that wood isn't burning off unnecessarily.

    With our new automatic, solenoid activated damper, on the forced air induction fan (now standard equipment), the door closes 100% when the fan shuts off and air is no longer bleeding into the firebox when the fan is off. This helps control water temperature because you don't have a fire going all the time and the wood is no longer smoldering and so you are going to burn less wood.

    At all times, you will have a ready supply of hot water, ready to be utilized.

    The fan stays off until the water needs to be heated up again and then comes on again, when the water needs to be reheated..

     

    Does your pump run continuously?
    We have designed our system so that the pump can be set to run on demand and not 24 hours a day like other manufacture's furnaces.

    You have your choice. If your Shaver furnace is a long distance from your home, you may choose to have the pump run continuously so that there isn't any delay getting heat.

     

    Can I extend the chimney of flue pipe?

    YES, you can add standard 6" flue pipe using our flue adapter. Double or triple-wall pipe is ALWAYS recommended when going though any roof or wall and it will greatly reduce creosote buildup!

     

    Do these furnaces need to be near the house?
    We recommend that the Shaver Outdoor Furnace be within 30-250 feet of the house but it can be within 5 feet according to UL tests.

    Claims in product brochures and manufacturer's websites that these units can be 500 ft from the house are hard to believe without ridiculous amounts of heat loss and wasted wood. We do have a customer that is 325 feet from his home, heating 4880 sq. ft. with the 165 model - and he is real happy!

    It is hard to see much heat energy being left after a run of 500 ft. even with underground temperatures of 50-60 degrees below the frost line - let alone at 12-18" in frozen ground, where most manufacturers say to put the lines.

     

    Is there an elevation concern for the placement of the furnace?  

    As an example, if the hot air furnace was 20 feet above or below the furnace would there be a problem with maintaining the water level in the furnace?

    Generally speaking, there is no issue with different elevations, since there is very little water in the lines. The pump tends to stop the water from flowing back and forth and there is a suction effect (like in a siphon) that stop the water from flowing freely when the pump is off.

    We even have heat exchangers 30 feet up in the attics of homes, without effect.

    If there should ever be an issue, a simple one-way valve will eliminate any issue.

     

    Do you offer financing?
    We can finance furnaces through an outside company, that we've worked with for years. They can finance a furnace for up to 48 months, with as little as ZERO DOWN. Typically they like to see 2 month's payments (approx $300) for a down payment but in some cases they can ask for $1000 down. It all depends on your credit. They give fast answers and are real good to work with.

    Straight Financing!*

    Available for New & Used equipment purchases above $1,500.00.

     

    Calculated with monthly payments based on

    12, 24, 36, 48 months.

    Payments start in 30 days after signing of contract.

    Interest rate is fixed for the term of the loan.

    Interest starts at the time of the contract.

    No pre-payment penalty.

     

    Program available in continental 48 states.

    ________________________________________

     

    90 DAYS - NO INTEREST & "0" DOWN*

    Available for total purchases above $1,500.00.

     

    Monthly payment required. Simply payoff the finance amount

    within 90 days and there is NO Interest!

    If the principal amount of the contract IS NOT paid within the NO INTEREST period, the finance charge will accrue from the date of signed contract.

    No pre-payment penalty.

    ________________________________________

     

    6 MONTHS - NO INTEREST &  "0" DOWN*

    Available only through participating dealers

    Contact your dealer before completing the Credit Application.

    Available for New & Used equipment purchases above $1,500.00.

    Monthly payment is required. Simply payoff the finance amount within 180 days and there is NO INTEREST! If the principal amount of the contract IS NOT paid within the NO INTEREST period, the finance charge will accrue from the date of signed contract.

    No pre-payment penalty.

    We can get an approval within 24 hours max..


    You can download the app and get more information at Financing-outdoor-wood-furnace.htm and fax it in or you can call the toll-free number on the app with your info.

    You can also apply online at

    http://www.accessequipmentfinancing.com/consumer.php?referredBy=WeldRite,Inc.

    If using the paper app, please put Randy as the dealer and 608-519-4664 for the phone number at the top of the app.

    You can also call Access Equipment & Financing LLC, Toll-Free at 1-866-892-0315

    Their Fax number is: 937-552-9484

     

    Special programs available for the following states:

    AZ, CA, FL, GA, IA, IN, KY, ME, MI, MN, MO,

    MS, NC, OH, OR, PA, TN, TX, VA, WA, WI, WV

     

    $150 doc fee on all financing.

     

    WHY OUR FURNACE IS THE ABSOLUTE BEST!
    SIMPLE! We make our furnace simple, so anyone can work on it.

    First and foremost the firebox thickness is the most important factor. We have the thickest optional firebox in the industry at just shy of 1/2" -  compared to 1/4" from our nearest competitor. That's 100% thicker and that's important because the firebox is always the first thing to fail. Most furnaces are only .125 to .1875" thick, with only 2 others that are .250" thick.

    We have a 20 year parts AND labor warranty. Most others just cover parts or their warranty is much shorter - read the fine print!!

    There is a forced-air blower in back that feeds air into the firebox, below the grate, to feed oxygen into the bottom of the fire. Feeding the fire from the bottom (just like a blacksmith would) is the best way to get complete combustion from the wood. This is infinitely better than a fan on the front door blowing air into the side of the fire - or a manual draft. The fan is thermostatically controlled to keep the water at a set temperature and is adjustable.

    The grate is made out of 3/4 inch bar stock. We have NEVER had one burn through! Most furnaces don't even have grates, forcing you to kill the fire, open the firebox door (letting out all of your precious heat), clean out the ashes and then restart a fire in the dead of winter!

    The ash pan is approx. 16" wide x 34" long and is 8" high. Many furnaces don't even have one, requiring you to let the fire die down in order to clean it.

    We also have a 50 foot POTABLE water coil (for your water heater) made out of 50 feet of coiled 5/8" OD copper tubing!

    With our built-in heat exchanger for your domestic hot water (on the water furnaces), you don't need a separate heat exchanger for the hot water heater, often called a side-arm exchanger or plate exchanger.. We have 3 water outputs. One is potable water using a sealed copper tube and lines to your water heater. The other outputs give you the whole 170 gallon tank of water that is circulated with a pump to the inside heat exchanger.

    The firebox is round and is 36" wide x 26" high (due to the grate and ash pan in the bottom) x 34" deep. It is made from almost 4/10th of an inch of solid steel. We've never had one rust through! Square fireboxes take 12 or more welds to put it together. Every weld is a potential leak. A round firebox only takes two continuous weld on each end for the end plates! A tube is MUCH stronger than flab slabs of steel that can bend and warp.

    We have a 170 gallon water tank! Many manufacturers only use 90-125 gallon tanks! The size is critical when heating a larger home. DON'T BELIEVE IT when they say they can heat 4,000 sq. ft. and have 300,000 BTU from 100 gallons. That's impossible without heating the water to over 300 degrees! Science is science!

    It is totally surrounded by that 170-300 gallons of water (more with larger models), so that it absorbs the maximum amount of heat possible! The water jacket surrounding the firebox is rectangular and is made from 1/8 inch thick metal - the standard in the industry for water tanks - as opposed to auto body thickness sheet metal on others. We are two times thicker; 11 gauge vs. 16 gauge.

    The chimney is made out of 5 inch schedule 40 pipe (1/4" thick) and is surrounded by water as well. It tops out at about 90" above ground. You can EASILY add extensions with standard 6" stovepipe. Smaller flues mean much less heat loss.

    The chimney is low in the firebox and exits about 1 foot from the bottom shelf, so that the smoke - or more importantly, the heat - is trapped so that it doesn't quickly escape out the flue. That would be a big loss of efficiency. This is also a better idea since you don't have baffles creating a lot of smoke and getting a creosote buildup on them that's hard to clean.

    This also creates a huge secondary burn chamber, to more completely burn the gases and wood! When wood starts to burn it's the escaping gas that burns first, then the wood!

    The water surrounds the ash "pan" (receptacle) as well. As anyone with a woodstove or furnace knows, ashes put out a lot of heat!

    There is a full-size rear door approx 40 x 48 inches. This makes it VERY easy to make connections and to service it. There is no need to pull the whole shell off as with other furnaces!

    We have an extra large, waist-high loading door - 19" x 19" (17" c 17" inside opening) suitable for putting BIG pieces of wood in! Thinks it's too small? Remember, a 30" piece 15" in diameter will weigh 115 lb! Also, the door is where most of the heat loss will occur, so smaller is better.

    The door material is made with a 1/2 inch frame and a 1/4 inch outside steel plate plus a 1/4 inch thick inside steel plate separated by the air gap between the steel plates. This door will never burn through! The insulating ability is the air gap plus the reflective factor. The inside plate only 4 bolts attach it to the door so there is very little heat transfer. We fill the air gap with easily replaceable Fiberglas insulation.

    These furnaces now come with a double flood light on the front for safety and ease of loading the wood. Not only that, it's a MOTION LIGHT! No switches. No forgetting to turn it off. If it's dark outside and you go near the furnace, it turns on!

    There are legs on the bottom with a skirt surrounding the bottom to ground level to keep it warm and dry.

    The exterior is made of  Heavy Duty Siding - 29 gauge with 10 coatings and it has a Lifetime film integrity warranty and 30 years against fade and chalk

    We can build just about anything. Billy did one recently with SIX outlets!

    READ WHY OUR FURNACE IS THE ABSOLUTE BEST!  

     

     

    Can I get the furnace without siding for use in an outbuilding?
    Yes, you can get the furnace without siding for $300 less. It is shipped without insulation. See a picture here. 

    Shaver Furnace NO TIN - bare


    Please be aware, that the furnace will be very ugly without the siding. It is like opening up a hood of a car; the exterior is wonderful but the engine is as ugly as sin.

    You can also add other types of siding or concrete board and lathe to the frame in order to add brick, stone, etc.

    You need to know that any siding or veneer that you put on, will have to be removed, if we ever need to do a warranty repair on the furnace. We do not cover removal of siding that you attach.

    You way want to consider having the Hardy board, concrete board or other panels be removable, with just a few screws!

    NOTE:  As of September 2013 - all Shaver furnaces now come with siding mandatory and this feature is no longer available!

     

    Who is Shaver Furnace?
    Shaver Outdoor Furnace is one of - if not THE oldest manufacturer of outdoor wood furnaces in Northern America. We have been building quality wood furnaces since 1972 - 41 years!

    We have a simpler, nicer looking furnace that's made to stand the test of time. We use our own tried and true 40-year old design. We believe we have the best - and certainly the best price by far. 

    We are located in north Arkansas but we ship to the extreme north in Canada, so we know all about cold temperatures. We heat our own 5000 sq. ft. home with a Shaver Outdoor Furnace.

     

    What is the Shaver outdoor wood furnace/"boiler"/stove?
    It is a safe and efficient way to heat your home with wood or/and coal. The Shaver furnace is designed to look like an attractive outside storage building and is normally installed outside, away from the home or building being heated. 

    A lot of our furnaces are installed in garages, barns or other outbuildings.

    Having an outdoor furnace totally eliminates smoke,  pollution, bugs and wood debris within the house. A water jacket TOTALLY SURROUNDS the huge furnace firebox; top, bottom, sides, front and back and the heat is transferred from the wood fire to the water. There is no other place that it can go!

     

    How can the Shaver heat my home AND Domestic Hot Water?
    The heated water is pumped to the home or building through insulated underground pipes (Pex pipe). A water-to-air heat exchanger (lake a small radiator) or a water-to-water heat exchanger conveys the heat into the home's forced-air furnace, boiler, or radiant floor heating system. 

    Your thermostat controls the temperature just like in a conventional system. You get safe, even, comfortable heat.

    Our water furnaces also supply potable hot water to your hot water heater to provide domestic hot water. This allows for normal thermostatic control so you don't get scalding water.

     

    What are the advantages of the Shaver outdoor wood furnace?
    The Shaver removes fire hazards from your home or building because the fire is outside! 

    An outdoor wood furnace also helps your indoor air quality and can alleviate respiratory and allergy problems caused by burning wood indoors . No more dark sooty walls and bugs either!

    Thermostatic control provides your home with even, steady heat.

    Current owners of the Shaver are also using up to 25 to 50 percent less wood compared to other heating alternatives. Since the Shaver can burn larger pieces of wood it will dramatically reduce time spent preparing the wood. Costs for large round timbers are also dramatically less than for smaller split wood. You can get this type of wood for $70-90 a cord compared to $120-140+.

    The Shaver Furnace means easy maintenance and few parts requiring service. We don't have any circuit boards to burn out. You don't need costly electrical gadgets and features to cause problems down the road. This is a proven design of over 36 years! Keep it simple and efficient, is our motto. 

    All of our parts are off-the-shelf parts that are available anywhere. There are no proprietary parts that have to be purchased from the factory!

    The house will be less drafty when heating with the outside boiler, because there is no combustion taking place inside, drawing in cold outside air to replace that used in combustion.

     

    What do the experts say?
    According to the University of Nebraska, "Wood burning stoves may not only save people money on their heating bills this winter, but also are a clean alternative to electric or gas furnaces," Adams said.

    Scott Josiah, state forester with the Nebraska Forest Service at UNL, said "There also are environmental benefits to using wood heat. Wood heat produces little pollution and is environmentally friendly, especially when wood is used in a high-efficiency wood burning stove and where firewood is a readily available resource."

     

    What is the BTU rating of your furnace?

    163,200 REAL BTU. Don't believe the outlandish claims of 300,000 BTU from a 65 to120 gallon furnace! They simply aren't true.

    A BTU is the amount of heat needed to raise the temperature of 1 pound of water by 1 degree Fahrenheit.

    That means that if the normal water temperature is 60 degrees F and it needs to be raised to 180 degrees, that it will take 163,200 BTU to do this. Remember that a pound of water is about 16 ounces. A gallon of water is approx 8 lb.

    (170 gal. x 8) = 1360 lb.

    Temperature change = 120 degrees

    1360 x 120 = 163,200 BTU

    You'd have to heat 100 gallons of water to 435 F to extract 300,000 BTU - simply not possible.

    Find out how many BTUs you need HERE.

     

    Is wood burning bad for the environment?
    A wood heating system is the right choice for the increasing number of consumers who are concerned about our environment. Wood is a totally renewable resource, which, when burned, results in no net carbon dioxide increase. Carbon dioxide is a part of the natural plant-growth cycle and occurs naturally when trees are allowed to rot on the forest floor. 

    On the other hand, fossil fuels release carbon dioxide when burned which otherwise would stay trapped in the earth. This causes a net increase in carbon dioxide, which is believed to be responsible for the heat-trapping "greenhouse effect." So when heating with wood versus fossil fuels, you actually achieve a net reduction in greenhouse gas emissions. 

    In addition, harvesting firewood has a pruning effect on forests, which allows net growth to flourish. The wood you burn likely comes from your local area -- it's not imported and not subject to price increases due to events outside your control, as is the case with oil.

    Many times the owners have land with fallen trees spread throughout abundantly.

     

    How long will the furnace last?
    We have a 20-year Limited Warranty plus a 5-year ON-SITE warranty on the furnace - NOT pro-rated. 

    There is a 30-year warranty on the siding.

    Electrical components such as pumps, thermostat and fans are warranted for 1 year.

    The life of your furnace depends upon proper maintenance. With proper maintenance your furnace will give you many years of dependable service.

    We have Shaver Furnaces in service that are over 30 years old, with the old style wood siding!

     

    What about Stainless Steel Wood Furnaces?
    Stainless steel may last longer than mild steel in an outdoor furnace, but not all stainless is a “forever” product. There are many grades and some of them are subject to rusting and corrosion. Automobile exhaust systems are made from one of the lower grades; they resist high temperatures but totally corrode.

    Most outdoor furnace manufacturers went to stainless steel to get in on the stainless quality image, but since it’s expensive many of them went to a low-cost, cheap-grade stainless - which is still subject to rust and corrosion! During the manufacturing and welding process for stainless steel, if the proper quantity and blend of corrosion-resistant and stabilizing elements are used, then it does indeed become a “forever” product. These elements optimize weldability without the need for post-weld annealing to restore ductility, formability, toughness and corrosion resistance.

    If you do purchase one of the lower grade stainless steel furnaces, be sure that the same model made in steel has a proven track record of corrosion resistance. The furnace design is every bit as important as the material that it’s made from.

     

    How long is the warranty?
    Shaver Outdoor Furnaces have a limited 20-year warranty! The Shaver furnace also has a 5-year ON-SITE warranty,  including parts and labor on the entire structure, in the very rare case of a leak. 

    There is a 30-year warranty on the siding.

    Electrical components such as pumps and fans are warranted for 1 year.

     

    What can I expect to pay for an outdoor wood furnace?
    Total prices will vary depending on the shipping location but our prices start at $4,477, picked up at our facility..

     

    Why is the water jacket so big? 170 gallons is a lot more than others!
    Many stoves do not have enough water capacity and tend to cycle too often. You load the stove with wood and fire it. With a small water capacity, the water reaches set point temperature and the stove shuts down. The Hardy just has 100 gallons in their base model and 130 in the next model up! You still have a good load of wood in the firebox that sits there and smolders.

    The Shaver Outdoor Furnace has a large water tank capacity, so you can burn the total load of wood with good draft, burn and efficiency. 

    More water also means more capacity (available BTUs) but at the same time the water doesn't have to be heated as much either.

    How heavy is your furnace?
    Our furnaces weigh in at a hefty 1610 lb dry, which is a testimony as to how much steel is really in the furnace. The Hardy H2 furnace only weighs 650 lb. The Hardy H4 is only 850. Hmmm... What does that tell you? 

    Many of the competition's fireboxes are only as thick as a trailer fender!!

    Won't the firebox burn out eventually?
    The Shaver Outdoor Furnaces are made with heavy gauge steel and will never rust out, to be sure. Can you imagine a piece of metal 4/10" (.400") thick ever rusting though? (many boilers out there are only 1/5" or .200" thick). That is why there are many Shaver  Furnaces with over 30 years in service, still going strong.

    What about stress cracks? The extreme thickness of the metal we use helps avoid stress cracks as well. We simply don't have the problems other folks have.

     

    Antifreeze as a Rust Inhibitor

    Unscrupulous dealers will tell you that the sole purpose of antifreeze is to keep the furnace from freezing up. Not true; the main reason is rust prevention. Rust is the enemy in the outdoor furnace business.

    Antifreeze is generally not needed as it takes a very long time to freeze 170 gallons of water and there is plenty of expansion room in the top of the tank anyway.

    There are several other alternatives to prevent freezing and at a far less cost. An in-line electric heater can be installed on the return line and set at just above the freezing mark as an extra safeguard.

    Even better, you can also simply leave the pump running if you go on vacation and it will extract heat from the furnace keeping the water warm. The pump only uses  110W, about the same as a light bulb.

    Antifreeze is an excellent rust inhibitor but it does have a disadvantage. It is designed to keep engines cooler. When used in an outdoor furnace, it has been stated that it takes 18 percent more firewood to heat the water/antifreeze mixture than to heat plain water. 

    Do not use regular automobile antifreeze. The best glycol additive is Dowfrost from the Dow Chemical company. It is environmentally friendly, allows higher operating temperatures, has excellent anti-corrosion features plus it has a longer life expectancy than other glycols.

    We have also heard that Beet Juice is an excellent and inexpensive antifreeze! Beet Juice has a neutral Ph just like water.

     

    Is this furnace (boiler) pressurized or non-pressurized?
    The Shaver Outdoor Furnaces are non-pressurized. They are atmospheric vented, which means they are totally safe and never build up pressure.

     

    Is there a lot of heat loss when the unit is outside and it's below 32° F?
    The units are very well insulated to avoid heat loss. In fact icicles form on the outside of the siding in the winter due to the R50 insulation in the roof. That means that the heat is being kept inside!

     

    Can I connect the Shaver to a forced air heating system?
    Yes, more than 80% of all of our installations are connected to existing forced air heating systems. 

    A heat exchanger (much like a heater core in a car) is mounted in the ductwork. When the fan blows air through the heat exchanger, you get heat!

     

    I only have baseboard electric heat, how can I use the Shaver?
    Many people with electric baseboard heat elect to install radiant floor heat between the floor joists or Hydronic baseboard heaters on the wall. 

     

    Can I heat my domestic water with the Shaver?
    Yes, our system circulates potable hot water in a closed system, between the outside furnace and the hot water heater. This keeps the hot water refreshed, hot and ready to go at all times. No heat exchanger is needed on your hot water heater! 

    We show you how to plumb it right into your hot water heater - saving $200 for a side-arm exchanger! Most people find they save between $30 and $60 a month heating their water with an outdoor wood furnace.

     

    Can I connect the Shaver to a pressurized heating system?
    Yes, in one of two ways. It's best to use a water-to-water heat exchanger so that the heat can be transferred from the water in one system other.

    You can connect it directly to the existing system by depressurizing it but we don't advise it.

     

    Should I consider radiant heat?
    Radiant heat installed under new or existing floors can be a great way to heat your home because there are no drafts and the floors (and your feet) are toasty warm! Radiant floor heat is the most efficient way to transfer heat, however, it is important that you design the system correctly. This is also expensive but pays for itself with warm tootsies!

    Many people with electric baseboard heaters opt for this method.

     

    Can the Shaver heat my pool and/or spa?
    Yes, many Shaver Outdoor Furnace customers heat their pool and/or spa. You can put wood in the furnace every 3 days or more in the summer. I guess this is where many manufacturers get the outlandish claims of 72 - 96 hours burn time!

    Remember that smoke output will be greater in the summer due to the smoldering fire and plan accordingly.

    we have a nice pool and spa kit, which will maintain your water temperature to within 1°F. this kit uses a Perl to determine the water temperature and a controller, which will open and close a four way valve.

    Water will be sent through the heat exchanger, when you need heat, the water will bypass the heat exchanger when the water is up to the temperature you set it at.

    All of this is done through a heat exchanger - normally as shell and tube type - this keeps the water totally separate.

     

    Can I heat more than one building?
    One of the many advantages of the Shaver Outdoor Water Furnace is the ability to heat multiple buildings from one location. We have heated up to 6 buildings and a hotel with the Shaver Furnace. Simply add a pump and Pex line to your location and you will have an additional heated area or building.

    The forced-air furnace can only heat one building.

     

    Can I use an outdoor wood furnace if I live in town?
    Wood may not be the best fuel choice in densely populated urban areas where automobile exhaust and other pollution already puts excessive strains on air quality. Smoke can also overwhelm your neighbors if the wind blows the wrong way.

    However, in suburban, small town, and rural areas, wood makes good sense. If you choose to install your Shaver furnace in a densely populated area the stack height should exceed the rooflines of existing homes if within 100 feet..

     

    How often do I have to fill it up?
    We put wood in our furnace at 8 AM and 8 PM. So 2 times a day. Don't believe exaggerated claims of 72-96 hours!  This just isn't possible - except in the summer, heating only water and a pool, hot tub or spa.

    The size of your house, outdoor temperatures and the size of the house will determine how much wood you use and how often you fill the furnace along with whether you heat hot water.

     

    Does the furnace come fully assembled?
    Yes, our water furnaces are delivered to you ready to install AND includes a circulation pump and a built-in heat exchanger for your domestic hot water.

    Forced-air furnaces include a furnace fan and a forced air damper in the back/bottom with a solenoid activated damper.

     

    Can boilers explode?
    The Shaver Outdoor Furnace is a non-pressurized systems which totally eliminates the possibility of an explosion.

     

    Do these furnaces need to be near the house?
    We recommend that the Shaver Outdoor Furnace be within 100-150 feet of the house. Claims in product brochures and manufacturer's websites that these units can be 500 ft from the house are true but only if an upgraded pump is used AND the Pex pipe is well-insulated.. 

    The furnace can be 10 feet from the house according to most insurance companies but the chimney must go to the ridgeline of the home.

     

    What is the recommended temperature to set the Shaver Furnace to?
    We recommend setting the thermostat in the back of the shaver furnace to 140° F, assuming you have a forced air furnace. This is the temperature that water to air heat exchangers are tested and rated at, and so you know that 140° will supply more than sufficient heat for your home,

    if you get into the colder months of the year and somehow defying that you need more heat, you can simply raise the water temperature up, which will in turn heat up the heat exchanger and supply more heat your home.

    However, remember, the hotter the water is; the more energy it takes to heat it. Your hot water is so expensive to run because it is keeping all of that water hot, even when you're not using it.

    If you have a boiler system, you will typically put the temperature of the outdoor furnace to what you normally have the temperature set at on your boiler. You would then turn your inside boiler down 10° lower.

    This will trick your boiler into thinking that it is a warm spring day outside because there is no heat loss and so it will not turn on.
     

     

    What happens if the water inside the furnace freezes?  Would it damage the pipes and the boiler?
    There are a couple of ways to go about this.

    In quite a few furnaces, we have put a 4 inch cylinder through the side of the firebox, with a flange on the outside, to mount an aftermarket burner. The burner can be oil, waste oil or propane.

    This will provide heat to the outdoor furnace when you don't have wood and it.

    It is extremely unlikely that a furnace will freeze solid considering that you have a minimum of 170 gallons of water in the furnace and there's room for expansion to boot. I've seen water heaters turned off in unheated houses that never froze because of the large volume of water.

    Otherwise:
     
    1. Most people simply leave the pump running to circulate the water and since moving water won't freeze, you've eliminated the problem. Heat is also picked up through the heat exchanger in the house, warming the water. The standard pump is only 100W, like a normal light bulb, so energy use is very minimal.

    This will pick up heat, from your furnace, through the heat exchanger; basically working in reverse. Be sure to leave your furnace on, as you do now. It can be set at a much lower temperature than normal

    2. You can also add antifreeze, however antifreeze actually lowers the water's ability to carry heat.
     
    Remember, the Pex Pipe is already insulated and buried in the ground below the frost line, where the ground temperature is always 50 degrees plus. This way the lines won't freeze. We recommend using quality pre-insulated pipes.

    We can also build your furnace to accommodate an aftermarket propane. Waste oil or oil burner - as a backup heat source.

    You will only need the smallest of generators for a prolonged outage or a deep-cycle battery as a backup to power the fan and pump (only 120 watts total power consumption) for shorter outages of several hours or a day or longer (depending on the battery). This is a must to power up a ThermoWind furnace because of the big power draw of the furnace fan on it.

    For the water furnaces, we have a nice self-contained unit that is both a charger (to keep your battery charged up) and an inverter (to power up your furnace.

    How it Works:
    When electricity is present the Surefire Stove Sentry charges a battery and surveys the power line. At the instant that a power failure occurs, the Surefire Stove Sentry converts the energy stored in the battery to AC power. This assures operation of the wood furnace without interruption during the absence of electricity.

    When AC utility power is restored, the Surefire Stove Sentry reinstates AC utility power as the prime energy source to operate the wood furnace or pellet stove. Simultaneously and automatically the Surefire Stove Sentry commences the recharging of the battery, to return it to full capacity in preparation for the next power failure.

    At sites where utility power is not present, the user should determine if there is a sufficient reserve of battery capacity to enable the wood furnace to operate for the desired time period.

    You can also use a 100W Solar Panel to keep your battery charged! Multiple batteries will also give you more time that you can operate without power.

    Remember that you also need to power up your furnace fan in your home (assuming a forced air furnace).


     

    Just had another owner of a Shaver boiler tell me that I needed to be draining my boiler every year.  Is that the fact?
    That is entirely untrue!

    It is detrimental if your furnace, even if you are using regular chemicals every year.

    When you drain your furnace, you are draining water that is pretty much devoid of oxygen, due to heating it up.

    When you refill it with water, there is a lot of oxygen and it and that is what causes rust.

    Using our exclusive Rust Blocker, you never drain the water because then you'd lose all of the boron in the water!!

    At that point, you would need to buy another 5 gallon pail, whereas the five-year treatment only requires another 2 gallons, which is a lot less money.

    Please advise the other owner that he is wrong and is doing himself harm...

     

    Do I have a choice of colors?
    The Shaver Furnace is available in 20 different colors, to be sure it will compliment the exterior of your home or match other buildings.. Currently available colors are shown below:

    20 colors for your siding!

    A total of over 8000 color combinations - sides, corners and roof

     

    Plus Galvazume which lasts 6 times longer than Galvanized metal!

     

    Also introducing RealTree™ Camouflage!

     


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    *Our standard furnace will heat in excess of 4,000 sq feet
    including all buildings, well insulated - plus hot water.

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