View our updated pex-pipe page at our customer
|This is the
Easiest System for Self Installers!
Simply drop it in the ditch and cover with dirt!
Also available with the electrical wire installed already!
For best results and less heat loss (less wood burnt)
always bury Pre-insulated Pex pipe underground, below the Frost Line.
2 x 1"
All pipe is wrapped FOUR times with insulation as opposed to being only wrapped 2 and 3 times by Our competitors - and many use Chinese (junk) Pex!
2 x 1" and 2 x 3/4"
Pre-insulated Pex pipe for outdoors. Made to be put underground. Totally insulated with FOUR wraps insulation.
Our competitors are only wrapped 2 and three times and many use Chinese Pex!
There are lots of options available when it comes to installing the underground pipe for your outdoor wood furnace. Sectional or seamless, foam or foil wrapped, the right underground piping can make a huge difference in how effective your outdoor wood furnace operates.
It wasn’t too long ago that insulating underground pipe was timely and very expensive. To save on cost most homeowners turned to 10 foot sections of insulated 4 inch PVC pipe that had already been available on the market for other specialty plumbing needs. The outside of each pipe was insulated and wrapped with a plastic bag material. Long pieces of Pex or Pex vs. Pex-Al pipe were fed through these sections of 4 inch pipes. After threading each section the pipes would be glued and sealed using tape. The job was awkward, difficult and labor-intense. Sealing each section proved to be nearly impossible and the pipe would fill with water, causing major heat losses and ruining any advantage of an outdoor wood furnace.
Other sectional pipes have also come onto the market but they all have the same basic flaw, seams underground. The flexible foam variety not only lack adequate insulation value but are susceptible to water penetration through each and every joint underground.
Modern underground pipe lines for outdoor wood furnaces have many advantages; namely, there are no seams buried under the ground. Even within this seamless category there are advantages and disadvantages.
Most manufacturers wisely use Pex pipe in their construction. Foam filled varieties seem to be the best alternative but a deeper investigation proves that foam isn’t always the answer.
The insulation itself should also be considered. Piping used for supplying heat from a hot water source, such as an outdoor wood furnace, lose heat in 3 ways: Convection, Radiation and Conduction.
Convection is air moving across a surface similar to a radiator or heat-sink. Convection doesn’t apply when outside air is sealed off, such as in insulated Pex pipe. R-value, a measure of convection, means little when convection is absent.
Radiation is heat moving from hot to cold, like we all learned about in high school physics. Conduction, related to convection and radiation has to do with how heat moves through materials like air, foam or plastic.
Click on image for a larger image.
Radiant heat loss is the most relevant when speaking of underground insulated pipe. We’ll return to this shortly.
Conduction, heat transferred away by the materials surrounding it, is best controlled by wisely choosing the proper materials for insulation.
Click on image for a larger image.
Foam filled underground pipe use urethane-based foams that limit heat loss based strictly on R-value, trying to limit how much heat is lost to convection. Foams only limit radiant heat loss by absorbing heat in a slightly limited way and is subject to cracking when rolled up for shipping and then un-rolled at the installation site - because it is so thick and rigid.
The best choice for underground lines is a pipe incorporates foil wrapped insulation. The foil wrapping retains over 97% of the radiant energy back into the pipe, virtually eliminating heat loss. Foil wrap must be contained. Strong, flexible corrugated pipe provides a shell of protection for the foil wrap and also creates a space of dead air that serves as a conductive break. Having the correct corrugated pipe is important, too stiff and it will crack when bent or compressed, too thin and it may be pierced by rocks or other sharp objects in the ground. After installation this type of underground pipe, expanding foam should be used on each end to seal the air space, eliminating heat loss by convection.
Use the blue colored can foam. When everything is installed and in it's final
resting place, tape a cut piece of cardboard securely to both ends
of the outer corrugated pipe. Make a hole the size of the
spray nozzle and add foam into each end. Do not add too much. Remember that some expansion will occur. Allow at least 5 hrs. dry time before removing cardboard.
Insulated Pex pipe installed and ready to cover up with dirt!
This looks like good dirt here; with no big rocks in it. Avoid dropping rocks on the pipe, so that do not damage it. holes in the outer casing will result in water in the pipe, which dramatically increases heat loss!
Recommended Dimensions for Concrete Pad
You only need to put the pipe at exact 45 degree angle,
if you are making your own insulated Pex and using PVC pipe -
OR you get cab pre-made insulated Pex from us!
1. Installation kit (includes 2
shut-off valves, a drain and 2 SharkBite fittings) at $71.99 ea.
2. Hot water kit (includes a thermostat, pump flange
and fittings to attach everything; top and bottom) $72.99
3. Heat exchanger for ductwork U.S. made: $175 and up (U.S. made-Lifetime Warranty)
4. Hydrocoil kit (SharkBite fittings for the heat exchanger) $26.21 pr. (elbows),
$18.18 pr. (straight)
5. Pump for the H/W heater $90 (3 -speed & 3-yr. warranty)
6. 4 Line Pre-made insulated Pex pipe for $7.99/ft. for a 4" black corrugated pipe with two
1" Pex pipes and two 3/4" Pex pipes - U.S. made.
3 Line Insulated: Pex 2 X 1" & 1 X 3/4" reg. $7.50/ft.
2 Line Insulated: Pex 2 X 1" lines Reg. $6.00/ft.
(If you only need two Pex pipes, for a garage, for example, you can use our pre-made insulated Pex pipe for $6.00 a foot (for a 4" pipe with two 1" Pex pipes - U.S. made.) Remember you still need a fill line or a way to top off the furnace, if it isn't being hooked up to a hot water heater.
These prices are plus shipping.
Note: The Pex pipe fittings we use are simple, push-on-by-hand Pex fittings
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* Some building codes may allow a
homeowner to be their own contractor and do much of the work themselves.
In other locales a licensed electrician and plumber may be required to do
the actual hookup.