Discover WHY we can say that.



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Most important!

We are the ONLY manufacturer that builds a
firebox that is 1/2" thick (optional)

Even our standard firebox is .427" thick 
- OVER 4/10th of an inch!

That is why they don't rust through,
split, crack and warp!

We have NEVER had a failure with our 3/8" firebox.

We don't have ANY fancy electronics or circuit boards.

ALL of our parts are off-the-shelf parts,
that are available anywhere.
There's nothing proprietary that you have to buy from us.

Many companies don't have a forced air fan.
Others have a fan that blows air through
the front door into the side of the fire.

We took it one step further and have a fan in back,
that blows air up through the grates
and feeds oxygen into the bottom of the fire,
just like a blacksmith's forge!

Our warranty covers parts AND labor!
May warranties only cover parts or
you have to ship the furnace back to the manufacturer!

Firebox Thickness - Information taken from their website
Shaver Outdoor Wood Furnace Thicker than 1 Gauge!  .427"  
OVER 4/10th of an inch thick!
Central Boiler Their website only says "heavy gauge" but forums say 1/4" or .250"
The Homesteader 7 gauge or approx. .1793"
Lil'House Outside Wood Heater 16 gauge  .060"
Mahoning (approx 3 gauge)  .250"  
Hydro Fire 10 gauge  .1345"
Hardy Uses both 14 gauge .0747" and 16 gauge (Firebox, Water Tank, Base, Ash Bin, and Doors)
Heatmor  10 gauge  .1345"
Aqua Therm Models 275 and 345 have a 3/16 (0.1875")
model 145 has a 1/8 .125" (11 gauge)
Pro-Fab Industries - Empyre Wood Burning Furnace  10 gauge  .1345"
Taylor Models 275 and 345 have a 3/16  (0.1875") firebox, and the model 145 has a 1/8 (.125")
Bryan Furnace 1/4" (.250") and 10 gauge (.1345") combo
Wood Master 1/4"  (.250")
HydroFire  10 gauge   .1345"


We custom build every  furnace for you,
so when you order you can specify
your choice
of 20 great colors  
and over 8000 combinations!



 Our furnace is SO strong, we can suspend it from the chimney alone!

This is how we move and load every one of them!!

Had a little fun with Photoshop here but this is really being
lifted and moved by the chimney, made of 1/4" thick steel!
That's the way we always move them, from day to day  :o)



Building Quality Wood Furnaces 
for 40 Years

Since 1972


  • As nice, courteous, and helpful a sellers as you will EVER find! Great furnace too!

  • would recommend excellent service thanks guys

  • a++++++

  • Wood Boiler seems like a great unit. Yet to hook it up. Smooth Process!

  • honest and very helpful seller



Why buy a Shaver Outdoor Furnace? SHAVER The others
We make it simple without a lot of expensive electronics to break NO
We make it user serviceable. Anyone can maintain our furnace! NO
We use an $8 thermostat available at any hardware store, not a $100 electronic circuit board NO
We use a simple mechanical fill valve - not electronic. Just flip it on for 20 seconds, once a week NO
We make our firebox to last! Ours is thicker than everyone else's!  .375 vs .200 inch NO
We give accurate BTU ratings using an established scientific formula. They say what sounds good. NO
We have 2 flood light motion detector light on the front NO
We have a fan not a simple damper to fuel the fire with oxygen. More complete burning Some
Our fan is in the back, behind a door, where you can't get shocked AND it blows the air through the grate into the bottom of the fire NOT into the side of the fire! Fires burn from the bottom up, right? NO
Customer Replaceable POTABLE Hot water coil. Many others don't even have one!
Our pump only runs on demand NOT 24 hours a day as with the others! NO
We have been building fine energy efficient  furnaces for 34 years! NO
Our grate uses 3/4" Bar Stock! NO



Rated to Heat up to 4000 sq. ft.

However, the owner, Billy Shaver, heats his older 5000 sq. ft. home
AND a 500 gallon hot tub AND his Hot Water
AND a shop (in Arkansas)

...with a 25 year-old model!



As a test of burn times, the owner of Shaver Furnace took the thermostat off his 25 year-old furnace, so that the fire would rage at maximum burn 24 hours a day. 

Yet he still only has to load it every 12 hours. Otherwise he goes as long as 24 hours without loading it.

Don't believe the hype and mis-information about 42-98 hour burn times. This is only true in the summer.



Click on Picture for a Larger Image

Get the Bugs, Dirt, Wood
and Smoke outside. 
Your lungs will love you
and your Insurance Company
will too! Many people are getting lower insurance rates.

Extra large, waist high loading door.

No more bending over, straining your back to load wood! Lever action latch for easy closing and safety!

A PROVEN design - since 1972!

We feel we build the safest furnace (nothing electrical outside). We have the BEST PRICES and a Very Friendly Staff to help you every step of the way.

ALL furnaces now come with a double flood light on the front for ease of loading the wood.

Not only that, it's a MOTION LIGHT!

No switches. No forgetting to turn it off. If it's dark outside and you go near the furnace, it turns on!

Think the door's not big enough? 
A 16" round log, 30" long log will weigh 112lb! More than most people can ever lift!
Trust me, the door is more than big enough
for anything you can lift into the furnace
AND the door edge will take a pounding
as you throw them in!

18" x 18"  - The TOUGHEST door you'll ever find with TWO 1/4" solid steel plates separated by a 3" air shield. 

This plate keeps the hot air in and deflects it off the door. With very little metal (4 bolts) to transfer heat to the door it does an excellent job of insulating the door.

Very heavy duty hinges! OURS won't fall off!


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Having the chimney come down low, stops the heat from going right out the chimney!


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The grate is made out of 3/4" inch bar stock. Now THAT's thick! We have NEVER had one burn through!

.427" Thick Steel Firebox - OVER 4/10th OF AN INCH. WILL NOT burn through - EVER!

1/2" firebox upgrade available for just $175

Compare Firebox thickness to another popular furnace (eBay won't allow us to say their name) at only .13"
Ours is .427" ! 

That's 328% thicker!

Some other makes don't even have an ash pan!! It makes it HARD to clean out! You have to let the fire die down  or move the burning wood aside to scoop out hot ashes.

Only one seam in tube so it doesn't weaken the structure, break or warp. It is made of a solid piece of tubular steel !

We have an ash pan! Some other makes don't even have an ash "pan"!! That makes it HARD to clean out! You have to let the fire die down  or move the burning wood aside to scoop out hot ashes. OUCH!

It is non-removable but is easily cleaned at the front through the door with a small shovel.

Only one seam in cylinder that make up the firebox so it doesn't weaken the structure, break or warp. It is made of a solid piece of tubular steel!

It will not RUST through in a lifetime! Will not split and crack like Stainless Steel!

 We have furnaces 30 years old and more, still in use today!


Actual photo of a fire inside our firebox
only minutes after reloading with wood!

Firebox size is 34" wide x 27" high (due to grate in bottom) x 34" deep. 

It is totally surrounded with 170 gallons of water, absorbing the maximum amount of heat possible!

The chimney is also surrounded by water, capturing heat that would otherwise be lost!

The ash pan (and hot coals) are surrounded with water too!


Click on Picture for a Larger Image

The pump, fan and thermostat included
have a one year warranty.


Comes STANDARD with TRIPLE Hookup for heating a Home AND a shop / garage / apartment AND potable Hot Water too!

CONSUMER REPLACEABLE  Potable Water Coil (50 foot 5/8" OD Copper) carries hot water, heated by the water reservoir directly to your hot water heater. We show you how! No separate heat exchanger is needed!! This saves you $200.00 

Pump runs on demand - NOT 24 hours a day like others! 

Again, this is potable (drinkable) water.


We use state-of-the-art Solar Guard insulation all around the water jacket!

Solar Guard is only 1/4" thick but combines a thermal break, reflective insulation and an insulating layer of R11.6! It has backing on both sides and is aluminum foil backed on one side. We then insulate on top of that with R11 vinyl-backed fiberglass in the walls and ceiling! 

TRIPLE INSULATED (R50) ON TOP - like a passive Solar house. You cannot feel the heat when you touch the siding!

That gives you R22.6 in the walls and now R50 in the ceiling!


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The ash "pan" is 16" wide x 34" long and
is 8" deep. It is easily cleaned at the front through the door with a small shovel.

Many furnaces don't even have an ash pan, so you have to let the fire die down or shove the burning wood aside to clean them out!

Water surrounds the ash pan as well, extracting all the heat from the red hot coals.

The chimney is low on the firebox and exits about 1 foot from the bottom, so that the smoke - or more importantly, the heat - is trapped so that it doesn't quickly escape out the flue. That would be a big loss of efficiency. This is also a better idea since you don't have baffles getting a creosote buildup on them.

This also creates a 2nd burn chamber, to more completely burn the gases and wood! When wood starts to burn, it's the gas that burns first!

Another advantage is that the chimney exits through the water, further heating it up - for free! Nothing does better!

170 gallon tank!

Many manufacturers only use 90-125 gallon tanks! The size is critical when heating a larger home. 

DON'T BELIEVE it when they say they can heat 4,000 sq. ft. and have 300,000 BTU. That's impossible without heating the water to over 300 degrees!

We can heat a house with a water temperature of just 130 degrees as opposed to 160-180 degrees in a competitor's with a smaller tank.  You burn less wood! Larger tanks also allow faster recovery and heating plus a reserve.

Water tank is made from 1/8 thick metal (11 gauge) - 2 times thicker than many others using only 16 gauge.

< There is an air handler/blower that feeds air into the firebox, below the grate, to feed oxygen to the fire - just like a blacksmith does it. It is thermostatically controlled to keep the water at a set temperature that you can adjust. This takes place of an inefficient manual draft opening.



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As you can see, the firebox is round. This requires only 3 welds instead of 12 welds in a square or rectangular box.

Fires like round chamber better. They don't like the voids of the corners.

The forced-air fan is in the back - feeding oxygen into the bottom of the fire - like a blacksmith's forge.

The lowers section is the ash receptacle. You only have to clean it once a week through the lower door - without disturbing the fire.

The firebox is totally surrounded by water.- top, sides, bottom, front and back!

You can see that the chimney goes up through the water, further extracting the heat.

Our chimney drops down in the firebox 14", trapping in the heat and gases, to maximize heat transfer and ensuring you're not heating the outside air! This huge secondary burn chambers allows you to burn off all the gases that first ignite, when you throw in a new piece of wood. This is valuable heat, normally lost.

Click on Picture for a Larger Image

Our furnace is so strong and well-made, that the chimney alone is strong enough to carry the 1600 lb. weight of the furnace!


Exterior is made of Heavy Duty Metal Roofing - 29 gauge structural quality, full-hard steel. 10 layers of protective coating. It has a Lifetime film integrity Warranty for walls and roof and a 30 year warranty against fade and chalk. 10 year edge rust warranty against acid rain.

20 colors to best suit your surroundings! Mix and match the roof, sides and corners.

There are legs on the bottom with a skirt surrounding the bottom to ground level.

The chimney is made out of 1/4" wall, schedule 40 pipe and is surrounded by water. It tops out at about 6 feet above ground. You can EASILY add an extension with standard 6" stove-pipe


Click on Picture for a Larger Image
to see hookup detail

These furnaces are shown without the door for easier viewing but ALL come with a door!

Extra Large rear access door. All electrical items are in back, safely behind a door! 

Water and electrical hookups. 

The easiest furnace for the self-installer to put in!

Click on picture to bottom left to see hookup detail.

Single output shown to left but all come with 2 pump hookup (as shown below) at NO EXTRA CHARGE plus hot water coil and hookup.


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Click on Picture for a Larger Image

The blower in the back is a great aid in getting a fire started. It also recovers the water temperature much quicker, and burns the wood up more completely
because oxygen is being fed to the bottom of the flame - like a 
blacksmith feeds his fire!

View through ash pan door. Air blower inlet.  (seen in back of this picture)

The air blower determines how hot the fire burns and therefore how hot the water gets. A thermostat ($5-8 at your local hardware store) on the back of the water jacket tells the blower when to turn on and off, so it doesn't run all the time and waste wood..

This is a LOT more efficient than a damper!

The air blows into the bottom of the fire, through the grate! That's better than blowing in from the front - into the side of the fire, as all others do.

You get more complete burning from a fire where the oxygen is fed through the bottom as opposed to blowing over the fire from the side, like others that have that big box on the door!


For one heat exchanger - 50 ft. from furnace

You will need one in and one return line per heat exchanger or hot water heater plus one run for the water fill.


Outside 3 x 50' = 150' Pex Pipe  $150.00
50' 12/3 wire 36.00
8 quest fittings 51.04
2 flanges 39.28
Inside Sheet metal (Rarely needed, if a heat exchanger won't fit your plenum) 31.00
1/4 HP blower (only if heating a shop or garage or a space without an existing furnace) 225.00
Heat Exchanger (100,000 Btu) 195.00
1-line Thermostat 19.80
50' 12/2 wire 24.00
110 V 20 Amp breaker 20.00
4 hrs labor for duct work
(only if needed for heat exchanger to fit) We now have custom-made heat exchangers!
$260 - 635
Total: $576 - $911

Prices will vary depending on supplier and locale

Installation Kit

Items can be purchased locally or you can purchase the pipe and heat exchanger directly from our supplier, which reduces shipping costs.

Their heat exchangers have a Lifetime Warranty and his Pex Pipe is A or C Grade Pex - not cheap imported B grade stuff.

They also has a nice install kit.

Kits will vary depending on the number of feet from your house. Other variables include heating your hot water or adding a 2nd heat exchanger for a separate building. This will require more pipe and a separate pump and thermostat in most cases. Pumps are $140 each. Heat exchangers are about the $195 for 165,000 BTU (varies with size, many are less) and there are many being sold here on eBay!

The average cost for installation (labor) based on average specs is $437.17

If you do some work yourself, it would be a lot less. Many places allow you to be your own contractor. Most people can do at least 90% of the installation themselves.

This will vary depending on your local rate and location.

Don't forget a concrete pad, approx 4" thick.

It will take only yard for a 4'x10' pad (approx 4" thick), giving you a nice place to stand and load wood.

Start with a small piece of wood.  :o)

Seriously, you can use these bigger, cheaper pieces or smaller ones - whatever you can easily handle. The bigger ones require less cutting and splitting so they cost less - about $80-90 a cord in most areas..

ANY wood is cheaper than oil, gas and electricity! One person said that they have never used their propane heater after propane prices tripled!



Shove the logs in on top of each other.

Use the poker for safety to push them in.

(That big pile of ashes may make the door seem low - but it isn't!)

Thought there wasn't a fire?

Think again!

Within a couple of minutes - literally -  this fire was roaring!


Great News! We have a coal series furnace with a shaker grate!.
We have had a customer (Pete) burning coal in his furnace the past 2 winters!
He puts 8-10 shovels in, about to the bottom of the door, heaping in the middle )about 9". This little bit will last him 12-16 hours he said!
Pete said that one of the advantages of coal are that it heats up faster. He can come home late to a dead fire and the water cooled off (he's a truck driver) and can have heat in 20 minutes!
The coal also lasts longer than wood. Pete often mixes wood, putting it on top of the coal and it works VERY well, he said.
Pete is heating a 3300 sq. ft house and a 1000 sq ft garage with 12 foot ceilings - so an equivalent of 1500 sq. ft plus 3300 plus his hot water. 4800 sq. ft total.
The garage stays at 70 degrees even when it's below 0 outside!
To top it all off, his furnace is 325 feet from his house!! He's a happy camper...


We will build YOUR furnace in any of 20 exciting colors
or any combination thereof!





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We can also build your furnace so that you can apply regular siding, brick, faux (cultered) stone or almost anything else.

We can also build them without siding for a savings of $200,
for those who want to put them in an outbuilding.



Questions about Stainless Steel answered

Do you build with stainless steel?


No, we don't build stainless for several really good reasons.

Our furnaces last longer than stainless with MANY furnaces still in use after 30 years plus!!

1. Mild steel transfers heat better than stainless does.

2. Stainless is a great sales feature, but little else, since most companies use cheap stainless, like a car's exhaust system.

There are many grades of stainless out there.

3. Since stainless is so expensive, the fireboxes are made really thin. Some are no thicker than the metal in a 55 gallon barrel or the thickness of a trailer fender!! That's why you see so many split and broken apart.

Our firebox is almost .400 inches thick as opposed to .200 in many furnaces. The Heatmor furnace is only .102" thin. Ours is almost 1/2 inch (.400)!! They never rust through.

We just replaced a Hardy a week or so ago and there are many leaking Central Boilers and Hardys on eBay for sale, that are leaking.

4. Stainless is more prone to stress cracks, so why use it?

5. Unless the stainless is retreated after welding, you've lost all of it's properties through the heating of the metal. And it's being welded to mild steel anyway, so what's the use?

Like I said, it's a great sales feature but our super thick mild steel furnace heats better, doesn't crack and split - and last longer!

If stainless was better, we'd surely be using it after 41 years of experience.

Best regards,



The potential for electrical shock is something we have tried to totally eliminate. That is why unlike our competitor's stoves, our stoves do not have electrical control boxes, draft fans, etc., on the outside. We believe these impose too much risk should a problem ever arise. We also believe that to have anything too complicated on a wood furnace is unnecessary. We have made our furnaces to be simple, and reliable and we have proven that with 34 years of use.

We do not have complicated self-fill, or water level indicators on our furnaces. They are simply things to wear out or malfunction requiring costly service and repairs. We install a simple manual valve which you turn on until water runs out the overflow, and flip back off. SIMPLE! (This takes about 10 seconds.)

These stoves were developed by us, for our own use. We started making them for others slowly and now our stoves are well known locally for their simplicity, and their maintenance-free operation. Shaver has sold several thousand in their county alone! We are sure that if you purchase one of our stoves you will be completely satisfied with our stove throughout its long service life which you will enjoy.

Hot Water Wood Furnaces are indeed the very best heating choice. We are positive that a few years down the road when others are making costly repairs to the overly complex system they purchased from one of our competitors, you will be quite comfortable and enjoying your new cost effective Shaver's Hot Water Wood Furnace.

About us:

Shaver Furnace is a privately held company and was established in 1972. Shaver Heating and Air preceded it and dates back to 1950. Gerald Shaver and his Dad were in the heating and air business for decades. They began to develop their first prototype for their own home, in the 60's. Gerald Shaver knew there had to be a better way than to pay for oil, even though it was cheap back then. His main concern however, was to get rid of the smoke and ashes in the house. It was obvious it could cause serious health problems. Besides the soot all over the place was a chore to clean. 

Having the wood outside already, made the plan simple. Put the wood stove outside! Stick something like a heater core from a car in the plenum and it would radiate heat - and the hot water could be pumped from the outside. He developed a model for himself and continued to improve on it over the years. In 1972 he decided to start selling the furnaces and an industry was born. Shaver furnace was indeed the first. The last revision was made in 1978 and the furnace remains unchanged, except for cosmetics, today. Now Gerald's son Billy heads up the business.


We have been in business for 41 years and we are a family run business. We have sold THOUSANDS of furnaces across the country. We are a brick and mortar business in Salem Arkansas - and we are here to stay.

We stand behind the quality of our furnaces 100%.

We believe that we can give you a quality furnace and
save you hundreds if not thousands of dollars at the same time.